Döner kebab sparks controversy between Türkiye and Berlin

With over 1,000 döner shops in Berlin alone, döner kebab has become an integral part of German life. This could however change in the near future as the Turkish government has submitted an application to the European Commission, asking to recognise döner kebab as a Turkish specialty. If this would to be accepted, most döner shops in Berlin or Germany, would no longer be able to use the name as their recipe doesn’t follow the official guidelines.

In order to comprehend the tensions created through the application, it is necessary to look at the roots of döner kebab. A history which, according to culinary historian Mary Işın who has written a paper on the subject called Ottoman Kebab Culture and the Rise of the Döner Kebab, is difficult and unclear enough as it is. Because while the term döner kebab wasn’t used in any Ottoman sources until 1908, images of the dish circulated for centuries before that.

However, it seems like until the 1970’s, döner kebab was mainly made with lamb, served on a plate with onions. Then, Turkish immigrants – it is unclear wether Mehmet Aygün or Kadir Nurman  was the first to do so – in Berlin adapted the recipe and started to serve it in a piece of pita bread, topping all kinds of meat with a wide variety of vegetables, sauces, and even fruit.

When going into one of the many döner shops in Berlin these days, one will be able to find an almost never-ending list of varieties on the recipe. The döner business is a booming one, as it generates some € 2.3 billion in annual sales in Germany alone according to the Berlin-based Association of Turkish Döner Producers in Europe. German left-wing party Die Linke even asked the German government in 2024 to introduce a Dönerpreisbremse or döner price cap.

#WorldFoodDay 🇩🇪🌍 Celebrating the doner kebab, Germany's favorite fast food! Originally Turkish, this savory sandwich was popularized in the 70's by Kadir Nurman, a Turkish guest worker. With around 40,000 kebab shops in Germany, doner is a delicious symbol of culinary fusion. pic.twitter.com/ndUYz5dCiI

— German Embassy Washington (@GermanyinUSA) October 16, 2024

Regulations are met with opposition

The Turkish application might well put a cap on that döner enthusiasm in Germany, or it might at least force döner shops to change their name. In their bid to recognise döner kebab as a Turkish specialty, giving it the same status as a Neapolitan pizza for example, the government is asking for a very strict recipe.

Beef would have to come from cattle that is at least 16 months old and should be cut into pieces measuring 3-5 millimeters in thickness. Lamb would have the same thickness requirements, while chicken should be cut 1-2 centimeters thick.  Moreover, it should be marinated with specific amounts of animal fat, yoghurt or milk, onion, salt and thyme, as well as black, red, and white peppers.

Application submitted by #Türkiye for "Döner" to be granted Traditional Speciality Guaranteed 🇹🇷.

This opens the opposition phase, which lasts for 3 months.

🥙 https://t.co/BiPrPcrHNZ #GeographicalIndications #EUQuality #TSG pic.twitter.com/FKIE459vym

— EUR-Lex (@EURLex) April 24, 2024

Following the proposal, German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture filed an opposition to the Turkish application according to Euronews.

“The kebab is part of Germany, and the diversity of its preparation methods reflects the diversity of our country — this must be preserved. In the interests of the many fans in Germany, we are committed to ensuring that the doner kebab can remain as it is prepared and eaten here,” Germany’s Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture told The Associated Press.

The European Commission directed the Turkish and German governments to engage in talks in order to find a compromise. Whether or not a compromise will be found, the final decision on registration will be up to the European Commission.