On 11 December 2024, TV5 Monde premiered a new episode of the Embarquement TV series showcasing Macau’s historical beauty and rich cultural heritage. A land that bears witness to one of the earliest and longest-lasting encounters between China and the West.
Viewers will embark on a journey to discover architectural gems that have withstood time, the diversity of sounds and languages, tasteful cuisine, the vibrant life of a modern city, and much more.
António Buscardini, director
1. Historic centre and ruins of São Paulo
Macau holds a special place in Asia, a land where East and West meet. Located in south-west China, about an hour from Hong Kong, Macau is the oldest European territory in China. A blend of Chinese culture plus four centuries of Portuguese presence, the city has acquired a rich religious, architectural, linguistic and gastronomic heritage.
It’s no surprise that Macau’s historic center has been on UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2005. This recognition is increasingly attracting the curiosity of many visitors, particularly in front of the ruins of the Church of the Mother of God of São Paulo, built in the early 17th century. It was the church of the University of Macau, and the first to be built in Asia. Following a serious fire in 1835, the church was ravaged by flames, sparing only the façade and staircases. The ruins of São Paulo have become Macau’s picture postcard. The street sidewalks, which are covered with small, white and black cobblestone, are reminiscent of the cobblestoned streets of Lisbon.
Just a stone’s throw from the ruins of São Paulo, the documentary then showcases the Leal Senado square. A popular venue for public events and religious celebrations. The square’s namesake, the Senate building, is a neoclassical construction dating from 1784. Its name, “Loyal Senate”, was bestowed by the Portuguese King John IV in recognition of Macau’s loyalty to the Portuguese crown.
2. A-Ma temple
The episode presents the multicultural kaleidoscope of Macau that transports visitors to different times and places around the world. The A-Ma temple is Macau’s oldest building, predating even the city’s foundation. It was here that the first meeting between Portuguese navigators and sailors from the Fu-quine province took place. There’s a legend about a Chinese ship that ran aground in these waters following a terrible storm. A girl levitated opened her arms and hands, and miraculously calmed the storm. After this miracle, the temple was built in homage to this missing goddess.
3. Languages
Macau’s official languages are Portuguese and Cantonese Chinese. Over time, this fusion has given rise to a third language: Macanese Patois or Creole, known simply as Patois to the locals. On 20 February 2009, UNESCO classified the Macanese Patois as critically endangered.
A few local entities have since tried to defend and promote Patois, such as the Miguel Senna Fernandes’ theatre company. Senna Fernandes’ company is called Dóci Papiaçám di Macau, which means “The gentle language of Macau”. Over the last few years, the company has been raising awareness of the language on stage. They have shown that it’s possible to use language for the simpler things of everyday life, especially when talking about more modern things.
Nowadays, the most successful way of transmitting the Patois is through music, especially on social networks. “We’ve made music too, and there’s already a lot of stuff posted on YouTube,” Miguel Senna Fernandes explains in the documentary. “We even use subtitles, because there are people who are already excited by the music but want to know what the lyrics mean.” The lyrics are in Patois, Portuguese, English and Chinese.
Language is the means by which people communicate with each other, build relationships and create a sense of community. The Lusophone world is the total of Portuguese-speaking countries and regions. The Portuguese-speaking world counts some 270 million individuals from the four corners of the globe. Every year, Macau hosts a three-day festival to celebrate and promote Luso culture.
4. Gastronomy and Chef Yves Duron
Macanese cuisine is probably one of the oldest fusion cuisines in the world. It dates back to the time when the Portuguese discovered the world. They came from Europe, passing through Africa, India, South Asia, particularly Malacca, and finally stopped here in Macau. Along the way, they brought different tastes, and different ingredients from all over the world.
“When they settled in Macau, they included the Chinese ingredients they could find in Macau,” says Helena de Senna Fernandes, Director of the Macau Government Tourist Office. “The result is what we call Macanese cuisine.” Thanks to this unique asset, in 2017 Macau joined the UNESCO Creative Cities Network in the Gastronomy category.
In the episode, Chef Yves Duron, a French expatriate, is featured as someone who, over the years, has become very familiar with Macanese fusion cuisine. He is shown going to the São Lourenço market to buy ingredients for Florita Alves’ restaurant to prepare a special fusion dish with her.
Chef Duron then prepares ‘Ameijoas’ Macanese – clams that are sautéed with ingredients such as garlic, onion, shallot, and Portuguese white wine. “I also like to add spicy bell pepper and a lot of cilantro,” the chef explains. He is also shown preparing another typical dish – Poco Cay, which in Chinese means “Portuguese Chicken”. It’s a dish that was created in Macau. Macanese families tried to prepare the dishes they used to eat in Portugal, but with local ingredients, thus achieving new combinations and surprising flavours.
5. The Macau Grand Prix
The Macau Grand Prix is one of the biggest and most prestigious annual events in the former Portuguese enclave. The circuit has a rich history dating back to May 1954 when the people who wanted to organize the Grand Prix wrote a letter to Paul Dudoit in Hong Kong, asking for support in organizing the first Grand Prix. It was a very important letter.
This Grand Prix has always welcomed the world’s best drivers, from generations such as Ayrton Senna and Michael Schumacher. It also hosts a variety of races, including Formula 3, GT and touring car. The Guia circuit is renowned for its demanding nature and the danger it represents for competitors. Narrow streets, tight walls and high-speed sections create an exciting environment for drivers.
“I remember Michael Schumacher who, after winning Monaco in F1, said that Monaco is very special as a city circuit just like Macau,” João Manuel Costa Antunes, former director of the Macau Grand Prix, explains in the documentary. “The fact that he mentioned Macau was huge for us.”
Today the Macau Grand Prix Museum is the living memory of over 70 years of history. Renovated in 2021, with state-of-the-art multimedia screens, racing exhibits and barrier-free features, it offers visitors a fascinating journey through Macau’s motorsport heritage.
6. Architecture and urban landscape
Since the Fortune Tower was built in 1986, almost 200 skyscrapers have sprung up in Macau. An impressive new architectural landscape that attracts several million tourists every year. Over the past two decades, Cotai Street has become a new symbol of Macau’s identity.
Here, visitors can see clusters of spectacular resorts all along Cotai Street. There are several dozen luxury hotels with very original designs. “As an architect, it’s very interesting to witness these large developments,” says architect Christine Choi. “You really see the precision and attention to design at an architectural and technological level.”
In the heart of Cotai street, there is a very pleasant footpath that gives visitors a privileged view of the many resorts and also of the Taipa district.