Ribatejo is a central, coastless province, located in southern Portugal, named for the banks of the Tejo (Tagus) River, which courses through the region from northeast to southwest. Portugal’s second-largest wine region, wine-making here goes back to Roman times. By the 13th century about 60,000 barrels a year were being exported to the UK alone.
Different subdivisions and terroirs mean the area is not just one homogenous mass. The “Campo” or “Lezíria” next to the Tejo River is subject to flooding, when rich soil is deposited along its banks. Benefitting from a temperate climate, white wine grapes predominate, although red grape varieties are also grown. Meanwhile the “Charneco” (or “heathland”) is south of the Campo on the Tejo’s left bank, with sandier soils and drier weather. Some of Ribatejo’s best reds are produced here.
1. Reserva do Paul 2018 Grande Reserva
At 16%, this is a wine of rare strength from Quinta Monteiro de Matos. Aged in madeira barrels for at least 18 months, Syrah is blended with 60% Touriga Nacional – considered by many to be Portugal’s finest grape. It has low yields but offers deep black fruitiness balanced with bottomless tannins, and ages well. At around 65 euros a bottle, the price reflects its quality. It is multi-award-winning, including the prestigious Grand Gold Mundus Vini prize. An excellent investment wine to lay down.
2. Terras de Paul 2014
If you can’t spring for a bottle of Reserva do Paul, you could try Terras de Paul 2014 from the same vineyard instead – an entry level bottle with intriguing notes of black pepper and smoke, but quaffably light and easy on the wallet too – at just 7 euros.
3. QE Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Reserva
Quinto Elemento is a wine range from family-run Quinta do Arrobe. Look out for their clean, modern labelling depicting an egg and five orbits to symbolise their philosophy, which is that alongside water, shelter, fire and food, wine is the fifth element essential to life. Their line of Reservas go for 25 to 40 euros, while an Oculto can be picked up for between 3 and 7 euros. Grown in chalky clay soil, I found this Cabernet Sauvignon to have a petrichor nose, with pleasing caramel and aniseed flavours, balanced tannins, and hits of spice.
4. Quinto Elemento Blanc de Noirs 2017
Another Quinta do Arrobe offering. I’m a big sucker for blancs de noirs, white wines made using red wine grapes, and pleasingly this one uses Trincadeira, one of Portugal’s oldest varieties. It has all the minerality and butteriness that I look for.
5. Bridão 2019 Private Collection
From the Cartaxo cooperative, south of Santarém, bordering the Tejo or Tagus river. It has the area’s typical lucent citrine appearance, but its makers have avoided the traditional and highly-scented Fernão Pires grape, to blend instead Arinto, Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. I enjoyed its light savoury mouthfeel, and the saline edge to its tropical pineapple and lime notes. Chosen for us by Manuel Vargas at Oh! VARGAS restaurant, Santarém, it was a great accompaniment to tangy goats cheese, sweet red pepper and and blackened leek.
6. Câmbio Blanc de Noirs 2019 – Grande Escolha
This was wine of the day for me at Ó Balcão, a restaurant run by chef and local gastronomy ambassador Rodrigo Castelo. From the Batista Pitada Verde vineyard, this is a white tempranillo whose sharp citrus is balanced by buttery dried fruit notes.
7. Monge Bruto 2015
A welcome change from ubiquitous cavas or proseccos. this is a very affordable dry, sparkling white, produced by the classic ‘champegnoise’ method from red castelão grapes at Quinta do Casal Branco, one of the region’s large estates. Fresh acidity is balanced with herby, spicy notes and it went perfectly with our Ó Balcão hors d’oeuvre of crispy river shrimp and chewy cured meats.
8. Conde Vimioso 2019 Sommelier Edition
Antonina Barbosa is the winemaker and biochemist behind this elegant red. She believes achieving simplicity takes a lot of knowledge. An international challenge gold medal winner, Conde Vimioso’s blend of Aragonez, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Shiraz was a good match for the grilled meats and stylish tapas dishes we had at Dois Petiscos restaurant in Santarém. Deep ruby in aspect, with a spiced plum and bramble nose. Well-structured with a good tannin-fruit balance and lingering finish. Retailing around 10 euros, it’s also excellent value.
9. Vale de Lobos Reserva 2018
From Quinta da Ribeirinha a friendly three-generation vineyard with guest rooms and events space just outside Santarém. This 8-month-aged red is a rare but affordable mono-varietal beast, made with 100% Touriga Nacional (usually used alongside other grapes). A rich and well-rounded combination of floral notes, vanilla and spices.
10. Vale de Lobos Grande Reserva Jose et Violante 2017
From the same vineyard but departing from their hallmark ‘wolf’ logo, Quinta da Ribeirinha has badged this premium wine with a label inspired by the region’s famous blue ‘azulejo’ tiles and named it in honour of the family’s grandparents in 2017, the first year the harvest was done without them. Combining sloeberry and clove dryness with ripe black fruit, this is class in a bottle.
