When I said I’d be spending a night in Trollhättan, a former industrial city at the drainpipe end of Vänern, Sweden’s largest lake, people just looked perplexed. A couple may have even chuckled. But as the self-appointed ambassador for the “23rd-largest city in Sweden”, according to an understated Wikipedia entry, I set about to convince any and all that taking the more circuitous southern route from Stockholm to Malmö was worth the effort.
My four-night journey took in the likes of Örebro, with its imperious castle, skirted the Norwegian border where fjällen (‘the fells’ mountain range) taper off to the North Sea, and plied the lake’s edge and hinterlands for some cultural and natural excursions. The trip was capped off by a sneaky stop in Trollhättan – an emerging film hotspot dubbed ‘Trollywood’ by the usual wags.
Dating back to the 15th century, the township of Trollhättan grew out of its strategic position at the mouth of the Göta River linking Lake Vänern to the port of Gothenburg, Sweden’s second-largest city 75km south. Literally translated as “troll’s bonnet”, the name Trollhättan pays homage to Scandinavian folklore. Some believe it stems from the hat or hood-like formation of the waterfall tumbling through the town centre; more mystical types will say the gorges of the Göta Älv were carved by giant trolls, forming “islands in the river” or “hättor”.
However you look at it, the resulting geology combined with engineering feats over the centuries leave a powerful impression – with a series of cascades and spillways weaving through the centre. Visitors can see first-hand the locks in action as vessels make their way along the waterways laden with cut pine and other goods.
Trollhättan’s historical significance as a trading junction and confluence point for the Göta Canal connecting southern Sweden’s two inland freshwater seas, Lake Vänern and Lake Vättern, is undisputed. Vänern covers an area of 5,650km2 (145km long) and plunges to more than 100m in places. The smaller Vättern spans 1,900km2 (77km long) and is reported to run deeper at up to 128m, with an average depth of some 40m. Both are vast enough to influence local weather conditions! According to Visit Sweden, the canal linking the two lakes took ten years to build and is still one of the largest construction projects ever in Sweden, and remains one of the country’s more popular tourist destinations.
Trollhättan is also the original home of Saab Automobiles and remains to this day a centre for diehard enthusiasts of the iconic Swedish cars built in the Trollhättan plant from 1949 till the company ceased production once and for all in 2014. Saab’s story of innovation, style, quality and quirks is captured in a dedicated museum just outside the city centre, facing the canal and an impressive draw bridge for passing ships.
1. Why such mirth?
With a photo-ready natural setting, monumental feats of engineering (canals, locks), a compact and attractive town centre, and that Saab connection, why did my visit to Trollhättan elicit such (barely concealed) mirth?
Hard to say for sure, but part of the answer probably dates back to post-industrial changes in Sweden (as elsewhere) and the declining significance of waterways in today’s transport mix. But it is also likely a product of socio-economic struggles in the wake of Saab’s closure, higher than average unemployment, ‘youth flight’ to major cities, and perhaps its proximity to the more glitzy coastal destinations, from Gothenburg right up to the Norwegian border.
For some Swedes and most non-Swedes the only thing they know or can remember hearing about Trollhättan lately is the tragic school stabbings in 2015 by a 21-year-old dressed as a wannabe movie villain. Reports at the time said he even posed for pictures with students before the spree began.
“Sweden has reacted with shock and horror after a teacher and pupil were stabbed to death in a school with a high number of immigrants by a masked man who was reported to have far-right sympathies,” noted The Guardian at the time.
The possible connection between the racist nature of the attack and the town may also lead to cognitive bias on the part of some when they think of Trollhättan – a non-trivial issue in Sweden today as it contends with what is perceived as a growing rift in society. The Swedish Government addresses the issue of immigration, integration and crime in the country in a dedicated factsheet.
Regardless of the reasons, being the one to dispel myths gives great pleasure in the case of Trollhättan, a city poised for a new era. Call it the third act in a redemption story, if it needs a label.
2. And action!
The emergence of a vibrant film scene in Trollhättan Municipality is perhaps a testament to the appeal of a city flexing its post-industrial muscle. Downtown, the movie studio Film i Väst produces about half of all Swedish full-length films, according to Move to Gothenburg.
“The high concentration of productions has led many cinematography-related businesses to establish their headquarters or branches in Trollhättan. They constitute an important part of fast-growing creative activities,” Move to Gothenburg explains.
Some recent titles co-produced by the Trollhättan studio include The Girl with the Needle (2024), loosely based on the Danish serial killer Dagmar Overbye, and Triangle of Sadness (2022), a Palme d’Or-winning comedy about the social hierarchy being turned upside down. Most Swedes and cinephiles abroad will recall an earlier production by Film i Vast, called Together (2000), featuring the antics of a 1970s Swedish hippie commune.
Celebrities from the large and small screen have been sighted in the town over the years. The community created its own version of a Walk of Fame along Storgatan. Notable stars on the ‘Walk’ include Swedish actor Stellan Skarsgård and Australian actress Nicole Kidman who both featured in Lars von Trier’s Dogville (2003) filmed in the area.
Gothenburg is also keen to get in on the act by offering favourable conditions for the film sector, according to reports. This includes access to expertise in game development, advertising, and feature film production, as well as facilities within Gothenburg Film Studios’ 10,000m2 complex – and a critical mass of around 40 companies already working in the hub.
3. Glitz and guts combo
It’s my contention that the natural beauty of the fells and lakeside wetlands, combined with the gutsy heritage and engineered majesty of the likes of Trollhättan, Örebro, and Karlstad make for a more well-rounded tour than a fly-in-fly-out trip to Sweden’s west coast or flagship cities.
If you do wish to combine the coast and hinterlands, however, some recommendations for seaside trips include the village and island of Marstrand, where those not easily spooked can visit and even spend a night at a B&B annexed to Carlsten’s Fortress.
For picture postcard views of the coast, Weather Islands, and a spot of people-watching Fjällbacka is worth visiting (book well in advance if planning to stay over!). The nearby Vitlycke Museum and Heritage Site lets you get up close and personal with our Bronze Age northern cousins, and includes free walks round the rock carvings and a neat visitor centre and open air mock village.
“Ingrid Bergman called Fjällbacka her paradise on earth,” notes Vastsverige website. The Swedish actress, beloved by Hollywood, spent many a summer in the village with family. “Camilla Läckberg places her murder mysteries [in the seaside village] and Astrid Lindgren’s book, Ronja Rövardotter, was filmed in the famous Kungsklyftan that splits Vetteberget in half.”
Other coastal treats north of Gothenburg include Tjörn, a haven of art, culture, and coastal vibes, Lysekil with its winding boardwalk and easy access to Skaftö island, and the year-round appeal of Grebbestad.
But if it’s a taste of real Sweden, from industrial icons, and endless natural wonders, to stories of (re)invention in response to changing societal cues and hues, then head to the source – the great lakes of southern Sweden.
