“It’s better than a film!”, could easily describe Ladakh, whose tourism boom owes much to Bollywood. With its spectacular landscapes and rich cultural heritage, a melting pot of Buddhist, Tibetan and Indian traditions, Ladakh is a uniquely fascinating region.
Nestled in the Himalayas between Pakistan, China, Tibet, Afghanistan and India, Leh, the capital of Ladakh, is the gateway to this mystical region.
Long before it became a tourist hotspot, Ladakh was a centre of spirituality, Buddhism and trade. However, its role as a commercial hub diminished after the closure of the borders with China in the 1960s. The Dalai Lama is still a regular visitor and is rumoured to have one or more residences in Ladakh, which he visits regularly in both summer and winter.
More than a century ago, Alexandra David-Néel, the first European woman to explore these mountains—from Ladakh to Lhasa and beyond—embarked on a spiritual quest. This Franco-Belgian explorer, libertarian, Freemason, and writer was also the first Western woman to be ordained as a Buddhist monk. David-Néel’s first trip to India was in 1891, where she met her guru. Her second journey, initially planned as an 11-month trip, turned into a 14-year odyssey. She was inspired not only by the region’s intense beauty but also by extraordinary encounters, including her intellectual exchange with the Dalai Lama of the time. Remarkably, her husband patiently awaited her return.
In 2009, Ladakh gained global attention through the Bollywood film 3 Idiots, based on Chetan Bhagat’s book Five Point Someone. The film’s iconic final scene, shot at Pangong Tso Lake, played a significant role in turning Ladakh into a must-visit destination. Over the next decade, political changes and infrastructure improvements transformed Ladakh from a remote area with basic accommodation to a hub of boutique hotels and high-end experiences.
1. Shel, a haven of luxury and tradition
A standout accommodation is Shel, a high-end boutique homestay. Its story mirrors the allure of Ladakh. Its host, Saumya Khaitan, first visited Ladakh as a 16-year-old on a school trip and was so captivated that he vowed to return and make it his home. According to him, the best time to see Ladakh “in its maximum glory” is from April to October, though avoiding the summer months is wise if you prefer to escape the crowds.
Whichever season you choose, Shel offers an exceptional blend of luxury, ancient wisdom, modern design, and natural materials. Surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Himalayas and the Indus River, it’s the perfect base from which to explore Ladakh. The name Shel means ‘mirror’ and is inspired by the nearby Shey Palace, whose reflection shimmers in the sacred pond below.
Shel offers three en-suite bedrooms with panoramic views, an expert chef who tailors menus to guests’ preferences, and a deep connection to Ladakh’s heritage.
2. Treks, lakes, motorbikes and Stupas
While it’s tempting to linger in such a pampered haven, Ladakh’s nature is so spectacular, it will draw you outdoors. However, while it might seem tempting, unless you’re a fan of Wim Hof’s techniques, swimming in Ladakh’s lakes is not recommended – not only is the glacier-fed water freezing, but local villagers rely on it for domestic use and may frown upon bathers.
The region is a trekking paradise, with trails suitable for all levels, from beginner-friendly trails to challenging routes for experienced adventurers. For those less inclined to walk, renting a motorbike is a popular way to explore the area. Along the way, you’ll come across temples known as Stupas. Among the most famous is the Shanti Stupa, built in the 1990s by Japanese and Indian collaboration. Although its design departs from traditional Ladakhi architecture, it symbolises peace and 2,500 years of Buddhism, highlighting the cultural ties between the two nations.
For a more historical experience, visit Namgyal Tsemo Monastery, which dates back to the mid-16th century. It houses a three-storey golden Buddha statue and ancient frescoes. Nearby, Leh Palace and Tsemo Castle offer further insights into Ladakh’s rich past. The palace houses a remarkable collection of jewellery, ceremonial robes and 450-year-old Thangka paintings, whose colours have retained their vibrancy because they are made from crushed and powdered gems and precious stones.
3. Cashmere and pashmina goats
If history and spirituality become overwhelming, Ladakh also offers a glimpse of its luxurious heritage. Part of the greater Kashmir region, the region has gained independence in 2019. The local goats however do not care much for politics and who says Kashmir… says cashmere.
The region is world-famous for its cashmere and pashmina wool. These fibres come from goats, of the same name, grazing at altitudes of 4,000–7,000 metres, where temperatures can drop to -30 °C. To protect themselves from the cold, these goats produce a soft undercoat under their coarse guard hair, which is harvested to make cashmere and pashmina.
Visitors can learn this craft through workshops at places like Leh Vallée, run by two sisters who have spent time in Europe, or Lena, a women-led initiative. These experiences echo the pioneering spirit of Alexandra David-Néel, as women continue to play a vital role in Ladakh’s evolving history.
For winter visitors, Ladakh offers the ultimate adventure: snow leopard trekking. Wrap yourself in sensual cashmere sweaters and pashmina shawls and set out to track this elusive predator in its natural habitat.
4. Pro tip
Plan your visit well in advance and allow at least a week. While Ladakh is only a two-hour flight from Delhi, international flights to Delhi take around 12 hours. More importantly, Ladakh’s altitude (3,500 metres or 11,500 feet) requires acclimatisation. Visitors need 36–48 hours to acclimatise, and an environmental passport – issued only after this period – is required to explore many areas.
