The small town of El Chaltén in the Santa Crúz province of Patagonia, Argentina, is the National Capital of Trekking. Located within Los Glaciares National Park, the town draws people from all over the world, with varying amounts of experience and skill, to climb its mountains and hike its forests, exploring from the lowest lakes to the highest peaks. With a backdrop of snowcapped mountains and glaciers, it is the ultimate outdoor adventure paradise.
1. The history
The town’s name comes from the Aonikenk language, used by the native Tehuelches. They considered the largest peak of the areas’ mountain range to be sacred, and although it is now also known as Cerro Fitz Roy, they originally named it Cerro Chaltén. This impressive mountain stands out from the others, looking over the town, and as you gaze at the passing clouds, they are columned by the wind at its top and the mountain appears to smoke. The Tuhuelches therefore named it Chaltén, or ‘Smoky Mountain’, and this led to the town’s name, El Chaltén. This may sound very mythical, but having seen it many times myself during my four months spent there, I can tell you it really does look this way!
2. The town
Founded on October 12, 1985, the town sits at the transition between the steppe and the forest, surrounded by impressive rock formations, forested valleys and rivers and streams. The current population is around 3000 inhabitants, although this number is constantly changing and growing, in fact in the 1991 census it was only 41. The geography of the area limits the town’s growth somewhat, however El Chaltén is always changing. I visited in 2012/13, and there were several houses and tourist accommodations under construction. So much so that at the time, many inhabitants lived in caravans or hostels or built their own houses, as there wasn’t much spare property around. El Chalten’s population reduces dramatically over their winter season (June-September), as people leave to avoid the cold and snowy period, and because summer is their busy tourist season (October-May).
3. A unique and natural place
El Chaltén is truly a unique place and a complete contrast to the lives many of us lead, it is no wonder it has become such a tourist destination. The pace is slow, the people are spontaneous (mobile reception has only recently been installed so no texting to plan ahead!), and it is one of those rare places where nature is genuinely valued and prioritised. The town’s inhabitants live in the shadow of the most incredible mountain range, for which they hold great respect. Walking down the town’s one main street, everyone is dressed in outdoor gear, and even at the town’s only nightclub, jeans and hiking boots are the dress code. Shopping is simple, as most foods are imported so there are not endless brands to choose from, just one or two, and people centre their day around being outside and enjoying themselves. There is a real sense that everyone there just thrives from being outdoors, and in El Chaltén there are certainly plenty of fresh-air activities to choose from.
4. Adventure activities
The tourist office at the top of town (where the tourist buses arrive) offers plenty of information and maps on the various trails available, and you can explore independently (they are well signposted) or hire a guide. The trails vary in difficulty from short undemanding walks like the Chorillo del Salto (a waterfall walk), to longer trails like Laguna Torre, which take a day, or require carrying camping equipment to rest at the campsite overnight. It was on these trails that I worked as a volunteer during my time there, and I will never forget the beauty of the landscape. Trails lead to waterfalls, through wooded mountains or grassy valleys, or to lakes and glaciers, and it often seems too beautiful to be true.
For more experienced adventurers, the nearby mountains are popular and have many climbing routes, and there are also smaller climbing areas at the edge of the town, as well as a bouldering festival in summer. For something different you can catch the boat on Lago Viedma, don crampons and walk the Viedma glacier! And for wildlife enthusiasts the area also offers opportunities as many species, unable to live in the surrounding harsh climates, inhabit the valleys and mountains of El Chaltén. For example the Huemul, an endemic deer in danger of extinction, can be spotted on occasion if you are quiet and extremely lucky, and this is just one of many incredible creatures who call this beautiful place their home.
4. Visiting sustainably
The work that Los Glaciares National Park and their Park Rangers do is essential in protecting the unique environment and wildlife of El Chaltén, and it is really important to respect this when you visit. The tourist office sets out guidelines for hiking the trails with minimum impact to the Park, and there are also Guide Service Providers. These are individuals or organisations authorised to provide guide services and other related activities within the Park, including the following: hiking and trekking on glaciers, climbing, trips and expeditions in the Southern Continental Ice Field, ice and rock climbing schools, rafting, kayak, mountain-bike, and others. There are so many outdoor adventure activities, you will never get bored. Just be sure to go about them safely and correctly, follow guidelines and be considerate of the beautiful surroundings. In my experience, El Chaltén is a place that stays with you forever, and whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife watcher, a serious hiker or an avid climber, this incredible town is sure to impress. To discover more about El Chaltén see here.
