Holding its own against the dramatic backdrop of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast is a port town whose history is carved into the surrounding chalk cliffs. With roots in the 11th century, a legacy as one of France’s oldest ports and some stubborn English roots, Dieppe’s story is worthy of a gritty BBC drama.
The sea is an enduring feature of Dieppe’s story and personality today. With its vast tidal range (8-9m), striking weather-worn cliffs and pebbly beach, the sea defines the town’s laid-back rhythm, insinuating itself into the old port and harbour life.
Still busy with leisure boats, cargo haulers and a smattering of fishing vessels, the harbour also supports up to 17 weekly ferries making the 150-km crossing to Newhaven on the English coast.
These modern links mirror the centuries-old bond between Dieppe and Britain – a connection infused by conflict during the Hundred Years’ War and later neutralised through tourism, trade, and cultural exchange.
The town was once a popular retreat for British holidaymakers and artists. Vestiges of that era remain in its Victorian architecture and lingering sense of Anglo-Norman familiarity. “Well-known literary and artistic figures such as Arthur Symons, Oscar Wilde, Aubrey Beardsley and Max Beerbohm would spend the season in Dieppe, keen to pick up on the avant-garde trends in France,” according to the Churchill Archives Centre (CAC) which documents the life and times of the former British Prime Minister.
The railway from Paris to Dieppe, completed in 1848, was built by a British company using its own workers – many of them deciding to settle in the area afterwards. The English popularised sea-bathing and golf in the region. “Finishing schools also sprang up in the town: young English ladies were sent to finish their education and polish their manners before coming out into society,” notes Sharon Mather, a Churchill College By-Fellow.
Port in a storm
The port itself is unique in its construction. Its infrastructure, rebuilt in the 19th century after the 1694 Anglo-Dutch bombardment, blends functional steel swing bridges like the Pont Colbert (opened in 1899) with brick warehouses and piers that hint at a former industrial grandeur. The docks still handle catches from the Channel, with Dieppe’s scallops among the most prized in France.
Presiding over the town from a bluff to the west is the Dieppe Castle. Founded by the English, reinforced by the French, and later rebuilt in the 15th century, the castle was fortified using a distinctive blend of flint and brick. It survived multiple sieges and attacks and now houses the Chateau Musée de Dieppe. The collection inside includes regional artworks, maritime charts, intricately carved ivory, and much more.
From the ramparts, the view stretches across the beach, the town’s vast esplanade, and out to the ever-changing sea. Follow the signs to the ‘Sitting panoramic’, an art installation by Arnaud Maurer. Designed as a life-sized photo-frame sculpture, visitors are invited to sit on a rotating stool to capture the views in full cinemascope-style.
Remember the fallen
Dieppe’s battle stories continue into the 20th century. On 19 August 1942, over 6,000 Allied troops (mainly Canadian) launched a raid on the beaches as part of Operation Jubilee. The assault was a catastrophe: around 3,600 were either killed, wounded or captured, while German casualties totalled fewer than 600.
The failed amphibius attack taught the Allies valuable lessons about the strength of German defences, setting the planned D-Day invasion of northern France back by years. “Artificial harbours were declared crucial, tanks were adapted specifically for beaches, a new integrated tactical air force strengthened ground support, and capturing a major port at the outset was no longer seen as a priority,” notes the Dieppe Raid Wiki.
Today, Dieppe remembers this and other wartime events with deep respect. An elegant memorial garden sits in the shadow of the Castle, and a monument to Canada’s ‘Essex Scottish Regiment’ is in pride of place further along the esplanade.
Housed in a former theatre just a stone’s throw from the beach and castle is the heartfelt Le Mémorial du 19 août 1942, a museum documenting the failed operation (opening hours can be spasmodic, so check before). A cenotaph by Don Gould in Dieppe centre bears a quiet inscription and the distinctive maple leaf, a symbol of the enduring bond between Canada and this French port. Just south of town, a Canadian war cemetery marks the final resting place of many who fell. Read more about the build-up and fatal consequences of the raid on The Maritime Explorer blog.
Thousand-year potential
Around the old port, comparisons with Honfleur are easy to make, though Dieppe has a more lived-in, perhaps wizened quality about it. Locals as well as tourists enjoy the eateries and bars lining the steep harbour walls. A number vacant or underused properties lie within walking distance of both the port and the beach, hinting at a town in transition.
Judging by real-estate prices, the phrase ‘potential investment opportunity’ comes to mind. Frequent rail services serve passengers travelling to Paris (via Rouen), taking around 2.5 hours. Driving the 170 km to the French capital takes a similar time, depending on traffic. The 340 km to Brussels takes about 4 hours by road and 5-6 hours by train, again passing through Paris and Rouen.
Today, Dieppe stands at a crossroads. Steeped in maritime tradition, scarred by war, linked by sea to its ‘English’ brethren and full of unassuming resilience, this seaside town offers more than a glimpse into the Anglo-French past – it holds the promise of renewal.
Dieppe’s English story and the castle that guards it
Dieppe Castle is living testimony to the town’s ‘English story’. The first castle on the current site was built in 1188 by King Henry II of England, first of the Angevin kings, and his Crusading son Richard the Lionheart. It was positioned strategically to defend the Channel and the town. In 1195, it was badly damaged by King Philip II of France. It was rebuilt to withstand attacks from the sea and further fortified during the 14th century to withstand the growing threat from the Flemish and English. Charles Desmarets, a French knight, liberated the town from English hands and, between 1443 and 1455, built a new fortress: a rectangular enclosure with four towers, a gate tower, and a drawbridge – all connected to the city walls.
The castle was to feature prominently in the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453) – a drawn-out conflict cum family feud between England and France over claims to the French crown. Dieppe’s ‘liberation’ midway through the 15th century allowed the French to strengthen their coastal defences. The town’s experience during the war reflects its enduring role as a gateway between France and England.
In the 16th century, the castle was reinforced to counter heavier artillery. A barbican or outer defence was added to the southeast facade, a new tower built below the main walls, and the enclosure extended to incorporate the square bell tower of Saint-Rémy church.
From the 17th century onward, the castle gradually lost its military role, serving as barracks and later as the governor’s residence. Windows were added, and the towers were topped with pitched roofs. British troops occupied it in World War I; German forces took over from 1940 to 1944.
Today, Dieppe Castle is a museum showcasing regional art and the city’s cultural heritage, including the composer Camille Saint-Saëns (1835-1921), who spent his later years living and working in the town. A visit is worth it for the finely worked ivory figurines and the views alone.
What to do in Dieppe
- Dieppe Castle (Château-Musée de Dieppe): With sweeping westward views, the château keeps a watchful eye over land and sea.
- The Seafront and Esplanade: Dieppe’s vast seafront lawns – described as the largest in Europe – lie just behind the wide pebble beach. Ideal for family picnics, but also for casual sports and tournaments.
- Saint-Jacques Church: Gothic pilgrimage church with a delicate rose window and 15th-century tower, dedicated to St James of Compostela.
- Dieppe Port: Eclectic and multi-personality harbour serving a marina, commercial port, and ferry terminal – restaurants and bars lining the west side beat as the town’s vibrant heart.
- 1942 Memorial Museum: Housed in a former theatre, this museum tells the story of the ill-fated Allied Dieppe Raid and its role in shaping the D-Day strategy.
- Les Tourelles Gate: The last remaining medieval town gate, once used as a prison during the French Revolution, now privately owned.
- Café des Tribunaux and Puits Salé: This central square recalls Dieppe’s literary and artistic past – Wilde and Maupassant drank here.
- Dieppe Golf Club: Founded in the 19th century, this clifftop course on the way to Pourville offers spectacular Channel views and golfing heritage.
