The French Alps are mostly known for their excellent ski facilities, yet they have so much more to offer than just winter sports. Adventurers will certainly be aware of the many hiking possibilities in the region and that is exactly what I want to talk about today. During the hot summer months, the high reaching mountains are the perfect way to escape the heat for a little or a longer while.
In the middle of July and while the world is reigned by COVID-19, I am in desperate need of an escape. An escape from the crowds, from the worldwide atrocities, from everyday life in general, I guess. And what better way to do so than by going on a hike in the French Alps, without cellphone connection and as far away as possible from that virus no one seems to really be able to tame? Accompanied only by family and a faithful little donkey, I embarked on a journey that would take me far away from it all
1. Time standing still
The starting point of my two-day hike lies in the Southern Alps in France, not far away from Italy. Fouillouse is a little village located at the very end of a winding mountain road. Time seems to have stood still here and except for the cars on the parking lot just in front of the entrance of the village and some red parasols, nothing reveals that we truly are living in the 21st century. As to make the whole experience even more out of this world, hikers are offered the possibility to rent a donkey to accompany them on their journey without breaking their back. Right here, it is not difficult to imagine that travelers have done so for centuries. Of course, the tents and gas pits in our luggage reveal a more modern approach, yet all in all, it remains a more or less Spartan experience.
2. Pine trees, meadows and lots of rocks
From Fouillouse on, the at times scaringly narrow path climbs its way to the top of the Tête de la Frema – and even into Italy, if you would wish so. At the beginning, hikers are offered some shelter by the many pine trees covering this side of the mountain. Beneath them lies an almost never-ending field of delicate flowers and lush green plants, which somehow know how to survive the long and cold winters that are so typical for this part of the world. While walking, do not be surprised if you encounter dozens of lizards, running away from the sound of your steps at top speed.
Then, all of a sudden, the trees vanish only to make place for vast meadows. At this point, you are surrendered to the full power of the sun. Even though the wind and the temperatures may try to tell you differently, you will definitely look like an overripe tomato if you decide to be stubborn and not to protect yourself from it. Tried and tested by yours truly. So, if anything, do not forget to pack that sunscreen and slather yourself in it. You may thank me later.
After the meadows come the rocks. If at the beginning you thought this would be a fairly easy walk, think again. Especially if you decided to take a donkey with you, this is where things get interesting. Even though the animal is trained for these kind of situations, it is wise to be careful and to let him take the lead. He may not always pick the shortest route but he will pick the one that is most doable for him – and for you, as a matter of fact.
3. Blueberry pie
Once you have passed the meadows and the first part of the rocky road, you are rewarded by the sight of the welcoming Refuge du Chambeyron. Here you can charge your batteries with a cup of coffee, a piece of blueberry pie or an omelet. If you would wish to do so, you could even spend the night here instead of setting up your tent higher up on the mountain. It depends on what you prefer: being totally alone with the impressive landscape that surrounds you or having a real toilet and a freshly cooked meal.
4. Colors and icebergs
Let’s assume that you want to continue your hike and take things to the next level. On your way up, you will almost certainly bump into some groundhogs, all chubby thanks to the many delicacies a summer in the mountains has to offer. The path then becomes steeper and more challenging as you make your way to the final destination (of the day, let’s be clear about this): the Lac des Neuf Couleurs or the Lake of the Nine Colours. You will cross paths with several other lakes on your way over, before entering some kind of extraterrestrial, dry yet snowy world.
As the Lac des Neuf Couleurs is located at an altitude of about 2.850 meters above sea level, it is not surprising that things look and feel a little different here. Only the toughest strays of grass survive in this rocky landscape. The lake is crushed between no less than five mountain tops, creating some kind of a microclimate where tiny icebergs drift on the water. The name of the lake clearly refers to the surrounding colors it mirrors, from the blue skies to the ashy rocks and the white snow. Melting together they create an interesting sight, making me wish I had an extra layer of clothes in order to stay a little longer.
5. Setting up camp
Yet after an hour or so, I am tired, cold and I just remembered I have a tent to install. Not here, clearly, but halfway in between the Lac des Neufs Couleurs and the Lac Long I am able to find a perfectly fine, grassy spot. Hikers are offered some shelter here, a tiny valley surrounded first by small hills, then by the towering mountains themselves. Once I have managed to install my tent for the night, I get out the gas stove to make a simple instant noodle-dinner for myself and fill my by now very hungry belly. If you can manage to stay awake long enough, there is nothing quite as humbling and beautiful as the sight of the starry sky seen from the mountains. Make yourself a tea, go and get your duvet from the tent and just take your time. Do not be afraid to fall asleep while watching the stars, the cold will prevent you from doing so.
6. Alone with the mountains
The next morning, I realize I have got the top of the world to myself for a couple of hours. No other hikers, no sound, except for the donkey who is pounding on the ground with his hooves. A sound I am fairly familiar with by now, after a night during which I woke up several times, convinced that a wild animal was walking right next to my tent, only to discover it was just the donkey. After a well-deserved breakfast, it is time to break up camp and commence my way back down. No need to look at the signposts, as I am taking the same route as yesterday. In case you forgot to take your coffee with you, make a stop at the refuge to truly wake up before you descend the rest of the mountain.
All in all, I have walked almost 25 kilometers by the end of the hike. Doable, even with kids, yet challenging nonetheless. Once I made it back to Fouillouse, I am grateful for the refreshing local beer and the platter filled with cheese and charcuterie at the local café. If you decide to do the same, be aware of the fact that you have still got a winding descend by car in front of you though, so do not be tempted to go all out. You might find yourself to be stuck in the village afterwards if you do so.
