Before embarking on my journey to the enchanting island of Zanzibar, I sought the expertise of a true Renaissance woman with an intimate knowledge of the island for her insider tips on hidden gems.
Margherita Marvasi journalist, resort manager, fashion designer and author, originally from Bologna, Italy, has called Tanzania home for the last two decades. Zanzibar, an archipelago off the coast of East Africa in the Indian Ocean, is not just a place where Marvasi resides – it is where she has woven her life, much like the vibrant fabrics that inspire her designs.
Home to approximately 1.8 million people, Zanzibar is renowned for its idyllic beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and rich cultural heritage. Stone Town, or Mji Mkongwe (Swahili for ‘old town’), the old part of the island is a UNESCO world heritage site, where Marvasi resides, it is a unique blend of African, Arab, Indian, and European influences, inherited from the days the island was a main hub for spices and slavery.
Marvasi discovered her true passions in Zanzibar, reinventing herself time and again against the backdrop of the island’s rich culture and changing tides. She graciously agreed to share her secrets about this magical island, a direct source of inspiration for two of her four novels (the latest one is still in the making).
I’m here on a small boat, fishing dinner, and two whales are having sex in front of me.
Marvasi was at her desk at La Repubblica, where she had just secured a much-prized life contract in Italy’s second-largest newspaper, when her then-boyfriend, also Italian and living in Zanzibar for four years, described this scene to her. She looked around the newsroom and made the decision then and there: she had to go discover this paradise.
A year later it was a done deal and her Zanzibarian adventure, which is still ongoing, began. She immediately fell in love with the people, the beaches and the culture of the place.
Her favourite beaches are the less developed and more “natural” ones such as Jambiani, (“super beautiful”), and Paje on the southeast coast, a hotspot for kite surfers, as well as Bwejuu, perfect for relaxing away from the crowds. In the southern tip of the island, she recommends Kizimkazi, with its dolphin tours, which has retained its natural charm.
For a unique, eco-conscious experience beyond the typical Zanzibar beach scene, one of the hidden gems warmly recommended by Marvasi is Chumbe Island. “It has the best snorkelling ever, where you get to see something like 70% of the whole East African corals, turtles, and seahorses.” In 1991, German social entrepreneur Sibylle Riedmiller founded the Chumbe Island Coral Park (CHICOP), transforming the island into a sanctuary for the coral reef and a forest reserve. No more than 14 people are allowed on the island at the same time. Accommodations are available but quite expensive, however, day trips are available and offer a more affordable alternative.
Kiwengwa, by contrast, is the place for those looking for parties and bars, set along a “still amazing beach, with a no less amazing sea”. Despite heavy tourism and large-scale developments, “This place really is kind of a paradise,” adds Marvasi.
Zanzibar’s beauty comes at a price, as gentrification, heavy tourism, and rapid development threaten its cultural heritage and impact the ecosystem. In 2024, the number of visitors was 20% higher than in 2019. The new airport, opened in 2021, is already incapable of handling the huge numbers of visitors and a fourth terminal is under construction.
Marvasi mentions the declining size of lobsters as an example of the strain on the ecosystem and deplores the ‘Disneyfication’ of Stone Town, where poorly managed restoration projects have replaced historical coral forts with concrete structures. While foreign investments have driven economic growth and job creation, they have also displaced locals and altered the social fabric of the town. “It’s very sad because it’s going to be like a museum. The integrity is changing, the flavours are changing.”
Yet despite these changes, Stone Town’s character as a cultural crossroads remains a source of inspiration for Marvasi, who warmly recommends “to just get lost in the narrow streets and absorb the atmosphere. The place is a melting pot of everything is absolutely gorgeous”.
This deep appreciation for the local culture and craftsmanship is echoed in Magò, the clothing line, she developed in 2004 when she was decorating her resort and searching for fabrics. “I fell in love with African fabrics – kanga and kitenge. They’re so vibrant and full of life,” she recalls. This passion grew into a collaboration with a skilled local tailor, culminating in a boutique in Stone Town. Today, she runs a boutique with two local women, blending traditional African fabrics with modern Italian design to create unique, elegant pieces.
But ultimately says Marvasi, there is a lot more to Zanzibar than beaches architecture and fashion. For her, the island’s most precious treasure is its people and the deep connection she has built with the local community.
Looking back on her 20 years in Zanzibar, she says “One of the reasons why I love to come back is that it reminds me there is another way of living”.
She cites the Swahili phrase ‘Tuko Pamoja’ [We are in this together] that best explains what she feels. “Here, the richness comes from our differences, and the need we have for each other. In Europe, I don’t feel that sense of community. But in Zanzibar, I do.”
This spirit of togetherness continues to inspire her as a woman, a creator, an author, and a designer.
