Carnival season is almost here and, as well as famous Mardi Gras celebrations in Brazil, New Orleans, and Venice, Italy, bucket-list parties take place in many places around the world, including the idyllic Leeward island of Saint Barthélemy, commonly known as St Barts.
There, in the northeastern Caribbean, a Mardi Gras celebration has been taking place every year (bar 2020) since the 19th century, when the tradition began. It marks the start of the Christian fast of Lent and was introduced by French colonials. But, unlike events elsewhere, the St Barts Carnival has a uniquely local feel, embracing not only European influences but Caribbean and Creole folklore and a tropical spirit.
When is it?
Though the big day itself falls on 4 March 2025, the Carnival vibes make themselves felt for weeks before, as people ready themselves, making elaborate costumes, preparing floats and rehearsing dances all over the island and its capital Gustavia.
With a buzz filling local shops and restaurants, its a great time to discover what the island has to offer. Then, over two unforgettable days, a series of no-reservation Carnival events are laid on. It all ends on Ash Wednesday, when appropriately, things go up in flames.
Parades for everyone and a devilish bonfire party
Not to miss is the Main Parade, a vibrant mix of impressive choreography and improvised fun accompanied by the distinctive sound of steel drums, throbbing reggae and traditional Carnival melodies.
Youngsters get their own special opportunity to show off their creativity and expend some energy during the Children’s Parade, and the family-friendly fun continues with a Pyjama Procession.
And the party comes to a head down at the southern end of town on Shell Beach, where a bonfire is held, setting fire to Vaval, also known as the Carnival King. A key figure across the French Caribbean, Vaval is a representation of a sinner or even the Devil himself. The Carnival is said to raise demons from hell, who come to collect Vaval and take him to the underworld. Thus, every year, Vaval – an effigy that for some embodies sociopolitical discontent – is burned, representing purification and renewal.
Insider tips
Insider tips include advice to book rooms as early as possible and stay in the capital Gustavia itself, rather than choosing accommodation elsewhere on the island which could mean missing out on the full fun of the Carnival. Allow a budget to support local artisans and entrepreneurs and make sure you have a camera at the ready to capture the excitement.
When it comes to clothing, while comfortable footwear is a must, visitors may feel a little out-of-place if they do not make an effort to join in with some sort of colourful outfit. Don’t be afraid of the burning of Vaval but don’t forget to schedule some down time, away from the stimulation the Carnival atmosphere brings.
And for those who can, the island calendar also offers a Gourmet Festival, usually held in November and promising all the refinement of French cuisine fused with unmistakeable local flavours; a Music Festival, typically held in January; and following on from Carnival, the St Barts Regatta held in mid-March and attracting the best sailors in the world.
