It is the oldest and biggest spa resort in the Netherlands, and you could say Thermae 2000 has been a roaring success, a description that seems particularly fitting given the site’s unusual history.
This sprawling hotel and wellness centre stands on what was once a popular zoo. It is entirely possible that where guests now lay their heads at night or relax in the whirlpool during the day was once the very place where elephants were exercised or lions trained.
That all came to an end in 1989 when Thermae 2000 first opened. The zoo animals went their separate ways, and, instead, thermal spas, restaurants, wellness facilities, and, a few years later, hotel rooms took their place.
What did remain, and had to remain as it is protected by law, is a very large and impressive mammoth tree, one of the world’s largest, heaviest and oldest tree species. The new centre had to be built around the tree and, today, it still stands proudly among the state-of-the-art facilities.
A striking location above Valkenburg
The centre is located in the southern part of the country, just a 90-minute drive from Brussels, making it an easy escape for those seeking a restorative short break.
It is not only the oldest and biggest of its kind in the Netherlands but surely also one of the most distinctive in design.
Thermae 2000 resembles the eye-catching shape of a pyramid, which is fitting as it is perched on the Cauberg, probably the most famous “mountain” in the country, just outside the pretty and popular town of Valkenburg.
It was founded by two Dutch physiotherapists, Marcel Jaspars and Mijndert Verschuur, which seems appropriate because this is exactly the kind of place to head when body and mind are in need of some recharge and TLC.
When it came to naming the centre, the two men came up with a novel idea. They chose the first letter from their Christian names, M, and put them together to create MM, which, as every Latin scholar will know, means 2000 in Roman numerals, hence Thermae 2000.
The pair later went their separate ways but reunited a few years ago for a major staff reunion celebrating the centre’s 30th anniversary.
Wellness on a grand scale
Today, the resort comprises just about everything needed for a relaxing getaway: a wellness centre, spa treatments, a four-star hotel and restaurants where guests do not even need to change for dinner, as dining in a bathrobe is perfectly acceptable.
The wellness facilities are second to none and include what must be the largest number of saunas on one site in the country. In fact, you could stay for a week, trying a different one each day, and still have several left to experience.
The largest and most popular is Infinitum, which comes with huge windows and splendid panoramic views over the unspoilt surrounding countryside.
But there is far more here than saunas, both indoor and outdoor. Guests can also indulge in a wide range of spa treatments, and whichever one is chosen, aching bones and tired muscles are likely to feel far less tense afterwards.
There is even a relaxation cinema where, for a relatively small extra charge, visitors can watch a nature-themed film while reclining in a massage chair.
Signature treatments and loyal staff
As with much else about this lovely place, it is probably the friendly Dutch staff who truly make it what it is.
One good example is Patricia, one of the longest-serving members of the team, who has worked as a masseuse here for more than 30 years.
One of her specialities is the Lomi Lomi massage, likened to the therapeutic effect of waves rolling onto a Hawaiian beach. Guests are covered from head to toe in fragrant oil before being gently massaged for 50 minutes.
Another option is the Lotus massage, also lasting 50 minutes, covering the front and back of the body as well as the face.
The newest treatment is the Japanese head spa, focusing on cleansing, soothing and revitalising the scalp. It uses specially developed products and a nourishing mask carefully massaged in before finishing with conditioner that leaves hair feeling supple and healthy.
Guests can choose a 45-minute treatment (€89.95), focusing on deep cleansing, steam therapy and a refreshing scalp massage, or a 75-minute treatment (€114.95) for a more extensive experience with extra attention to the back, neck, face and scalp.
For Patricia, working here is also a family affair, as her husband does the same work at the centre.
Stay the night in comfort
While many visitors come only for the day, the experience may tempt them to stay longer.
Thermae 2000 has 74 rooms in total, including 14 wellness suites.
Some of the newest suites opened last year in what used to be office space. Those offices were relocated to make way for impressive guest rooms featuring their own infrared sauna, modern comforts and cracking views of the countryside and recently renovated gardens.
All rooms are connected to the wellness centre, allowing guests to meander around in a bathrobe all day. The spa does, however, have designated swimwear and nude days, so it is best to check in advance.
Another long-serving member of staff, Patty, who works in the wellness area, explains how the centre first came about and reveals a curious link with the past.
Patty, who joined five years after it opened in 1989, recalls that her uncle both worked as a lion tamer and actually lived at the zoo that once occupied the site.
Food, drink and Dutch hospitality
If the friendliness of staff like Patty leaves guests with a feel-good glow, so too will the food.
There are several places to eat, including Bread & Bites, which overlooks the pool and wellness area. Tasty dishes currently include butter chicken curry, crispy skin salmon fillet, pork tenderloin skewer, burgers and local specialities such as Flammkuchen with goat’s cheese.
It is an ideal lunch stop between treatments and activities.
Close by is another eatery, slightly more sophisticated, called The Lounge Bar, which appears to be the evening choice for many guests.
Current offerings include veal fillet, aubergine-filled ravioli and zander fillet. There is also an excellent selection of beers and wines, and, considering the quality, prices are very reasonable.
For a quick bite or drink, there is even an on-site food truck.
Again, the welcoming staff make the visit even more memorable and are a credit to the owners. Near-perfect English is spoken throughout, and all information is also available in English, which may be useful for visitors from the UK looking for a short Benelux escape.
More than just a spa break
Not everyone immediately thinks of the Netherlands for a holiday, while this modest country does not claim to rival the South of France or Tuscany, this resort undoubtedly has something unique to offer.
One particularly distinctive feature is the source of the many gallons of water needed each year to supply the pools. This is pumped from its own 381 metre deep thermal spring in the Cauberg, dating back thousands of years.
Yet the owners do not rest on their laurels. While this former zoo has been a roaring success over the past 37 years, it continues to evolve.
The garden was redesigned last year, last June, the resort unveiled a fully renovated lobby along with 12 new luxury hotel suites, each with a balcony.
Time permitting, visitors should also explore nearby Valkenburg, where parking is free for the first hour and where they can currently enjoy Everyday People, local street art featuring life-size concrete sculptures of real people, running until 8 June. There are also caves and castle ruins nearby, making for an excellent day out.
So, if you are looking for a short break this spring or summer and do not wish to venture too far from Belgium, Thermae 2000 deserves serious consideration.
It is unlikely to disappoint, not least because of the warmth of the welcome, with guests even offered a glass of bubbles on arrival.
