Each spring, the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken open to the public. From 26 April to 20 May this year, guests have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the enchanting spectacle of vibrant flora housed within the grounds of the Castle of Laeken, offering a window into an architectural and verdure wonder. The queue can be long, and time slot reservations, exclusively online from 11 April on the official website of the Belgian Monarchy, may soon sell out. But the experience is unforgettable.
The castle, which serves as the private, and mostly summer, residence of the Belgian sovereigns, long predates the greenhouses. Located north of Brussels, it was originally built between 1781 and 1785, in a typical neo-classical style, for Archdukes and Governors-General of the Netherlands, Maria-Christina of Austria and Albrecht of Saxony-Teschen. It narrowly escaped from destruction, thanks to Napoleon Bonaparte, who had it purchased by the “Département” of the Dijle to turn it into a residence.
The true architectural marvel came almost a century later when, in 1873, Belgian architect Alphonse Balat, mentor to Victor Horta and pioneer for generations of Art-Nouveau architects, designed a complex of greenhouses for King Leopold II. This project, completed in 1905, added a contemporary flair to the classical elegance of the castle. The final design is the culmination of several letters, sketches, and plans exchanged between King Leopold II and the architect. Balat’s philosophy of simplicity resonated throughout the design process, ending in a glass and iron city, reminiscent of Paxton’s Crystal Palace in London.
The sprawling complex encompasses over 36 pavilions, covered galleries, and a magnificent Great Rotunda, all housed under a vast glass canopy spanning 1.5 hectares, with a glass coating of 2.5 hectares. This transparent marvel not only serves as a testament to history but also preserves King Leopold II’s botanical legacy, housing a remarkable collection of rare and valuable plant specimens.
As visitors cross the gardens, they are presented with two distinct paths for exploration. One route delves deeper into the estate before reaching the greenhouse complex, while the shorter remains closer to the buildings, but still provides glances of the ample English gardens. The shorter path also leads to the sculpting studio of Queen Elisabeth, wife of King Albert I and a talented artist.
Along the way, guests can admire a diverse array of plant species. Starting with camellias, laurels, rhododendrons, and orange trees, housed in the Orangerie, then going through the Geranium gallery, the green walk continues to subtropical plants, including worldwide palm trees in the palm greenhouse. The adjacent palm pavilion is however inaccessible to the public, as it served as the residence of King Leopold II for the last years of his life until his passing in 1909. The Castle of Laeken is also always closed to visitors.
An indelible mark on the global Art Nouveau movement, the Royal Greenhouses have also committed to becoming much greener and up-to-date. Major renovation works have been realized to make them more energy-efficient, ensuring they continue to delight visitors for generations to come.
Interestingly, Balat is also buried not far from his architectural masterpieces, his eternal resting place is in the Laeken cemetery, also worth a visit.
