I recently spent a week in Wissant, where the sky boasts as many shades of grey as the hair of the few inhabitants and the rare tourists like myself (except my hair is not grey … yet).
While my days were taken up with work, as a happy digital nomad, I was completely charmed by this little fishing village on the Côte d’Opale. Its beauty can be appreciated by driving along the coastal road from Calais to Wissant where the majestic coastline is revealed in all its splendour on the scenic route between the two capes.
A typical northern French coastal village, with a charming promenade from which on a clear day one can spot the white cliffs of Dover, with a typical village centre, complete with a church built in the 15th century using local stones and dedicated to fishermen, town hall & war memorial and the Hotel Normandy, a large Norman-style building which contributes to the picturesque atmosphere.
While most of the restaurants in Wissant offer similar menus, Chez Nicole café PMU, directly facing the townhall, is one of my favourites for its atmosphere, simplicity and the timeless quality of its two (unique) flagship dishes: moules-frites and jambon-frites, probably the best in town.
Another friendly and typical restaurant is the Hôtel du Vivier, which offers a wider choice than Nicole, from traditional moules-frites to pizzas (but I would not recommend the latter though). The place is full and I am surrounded by two tables full of happy Belgian customers, who have been coming here for at least ten years, rave about the food and prices “unlike those on the Belgian coast”. Belgians being Belgians, they all agreed that the fries and mayonnaise were fine, … “but they are stingy with mayonnaise here”, while their waitress happily served refill after refill of mayo.
The locals are as picturesque as the landscape. Take the fishmonger, who has the allure of a Dallas TV star, a blend of Dolly Parton (without the attributes) and Louise (in the iconic film). Her make-up, fake eyelashes and long, fashionable nails don’t hide her age or her years of expertise in seafood. Her products are exquisite, and her linguistic style is reflected in the name of the boutique, “Droit au but” (straight to point).
Another emblematic figure in the village is butcher BJM, whose arms are adorned with tattoos — a tribal design on the right and a more classic style on the left, exuding a charismatic biker vibe. His meat is of premium quality and the Angus bavette he sold me was tender and of unrivalled quality.
Neither seems particularly keen on credit cards, preferring the simplicity of cash – a change as refreshing as the sea breeze gusting across the promenade. Conveniently, an ATM machine is located between the post office and the chemist’s shop in the village square.
While most of the online comments lament poor service and a perceived lack of hospitality – which I have not encountered myself – their straightforward attitude is perhaps their last line of defence, like Fort Nieulay once upon a time, against excessive tourism, thereby preserving the authentic and picturesque character of the village.
The promenade isn’t very long, but at low tide the beach stretches for miles, offering plenty of opportunities for walking, jogging or even aqua walking, a very popular sport between the two capes. Its geographical location and stormy climate make it a surfer’s paradise: kites, windsurfers and wind-foiling fill the horizon, or paddles when the sea is calmer.
On Friday evenings, even (or especially) when the weather is grey and windy, the quiet streets and promenade fill up with surfers of all kinds. It’s a magical sight of colourful wetsuits, boards, and sails in a graceful aquatic ballet, much to the delight of those who don’t want to get wet but enjoy the show from the shore.
The most popular along the promenade is the Bar/Restaurant Les Sirènes, at the northern end of the promenade near the beach entrance, with its large terrace and glass windscreen, offers a divine view of the sea, sheltered from the wind. Another pleasant spot is La Digue, where you can alternate watching the sea and surf with watching football matches on the big screen, while eating fresh scampi and enjoying a drink from the bar’s selection.
Beyond the village centre, with its hotels, B&Bs and even campsites, its colourful marine clothing and souvenir shops, the bucolic streets lined with charming villas lead straight to the dunes. These protected natural areas are ideal for birdwatching, walking and cycling. These can be hired from Nico’s, in the centre of the village. One of the most famous walks is the Fartz.
Even in rainy, grey June, Wissant is a true little corner of paradise and most rainy days do offer an hour or two of sunshine. Two hours from Brussels, three hours from Paris or London, it’s an ideal weekend getaway, not too far away yet wonderfully remote.
