Ostrava, in Czechia’s northeast, is the country’s third city and at less than three hours by train from Prague, is the gateway to the North Moravian region. Once a coal-mining and steel-making powerhouse, Ostrava has been cleaned up and decarbonised, its industrial heritage now hosting dynamic museums, performance venues and music festivals. What’s more, the city’s clean skies and rivers have become the perfect introduction to a part of the country that is an up-and-coming nature destination, boasting rivers, forests, mountain trails, and accommodations ranging from campsites to stunning spa hotels.
Mountain restaurants and the Radhošt Chapel
Less than an hour and a half from Ostrava, lie the Western Beskids Range where, on a mountain saddle reachable by foot or by chair lift, the hamlet of Pustevny awaits. The village is named after the Czech word for “hermit” but that word does no justice to the splendid wooden buildings built here in traditional Slavic folk style. Designed in the 19th century by architect Dušan Jurkovič, the cluster of dwellings now hosts a hotel and the highly decorative Libušín restaurant, where hearty mountain fare, beer, and delectably soft blueberry dumplings are on offer.
To work up an appetite, try the trails nearby. An easy eight-kilometre roundtrip will take you along the mountain ridge to the Radhošt chapel. At 1,129 metres altitude, the place of worship, built in 1898, is thought to be one of the highest chapels in Europe and is a popular pilgrimage spot.
A Pagan god and a Sky Walk
On the way to Radhošt chapel, or the route back, stop for refreshments and raise a glass of slivovice for good luck perhaps, to the statue of the Pagan god, Radegast. Standing 3.2 metres tall, the statue has the body of a human, the face of a lion, and holds a horn of plenty and a duck. Local legend has it that the people here worshipped the god and buried a statue of him and some treasure somewhere on Mount Radhošt when Christian missionaries threatened to destroy them.
Back at Pustevny hamlet, and on the other side of the chair lift hut, a slightly more challenging trail has been created. Exciting but still suitable for families, a 26-metre tall tree-top walkway has been constructed on the mountain, leading like an Escher puzzle up to a viewpoint. Visitors can step out over the void on a glass “Sky Walk” where a sky cam will take a “selfie” of guests with the stunning view of the surrounding region – on a clear day, as far as Poland.
There are plenty of hiking (and skiing) trails, taking in stunning views, mountain pastures, and valley streams, in the region. Other hi-octane pursuits are available. A brand new cycle zip line (yes, that’s right) has been installed at the Sky Walk. Paragliding and bobsledding can also be found nearby.
A spa night or two in an art hotel
After all that exercise, perhaps a night or two of indulgence would be in order. The Miura Art Hotel sits in a mountain meadow, its modern glass exterior and outdoor pools reflecting the gentle peaks on the horizon. Each room has contemporary décor and picture windows onto the mountains. Those who can tear themselves away from the view will find one of the best spas this writer has ever been to, with five different sauna/steam room types, a snow room, a vast jacuzzi, and a heated outdoor pool.
Pre-dinner, why not explore the hotel’s artwork, including original pieces by Damien Hirst, Basquiat, and Andy Warhol said to be worth more than the entire establishment. Outside, in the sunset, glimmer statues by David Černý, whose Head of Franz Kafka has captured the imagination of visitors to Prague.
And for dinner, the hotel restaurant presents world-class cuisine by Chef Michael Göth whose modern take on Beskydy regional cuisine has inspired the new á la carte menu full of premium ingredients from local farmers.
Rooms start at around €200. For approximately €660, a two-night package for two people can be had including a deluxe room, breakfast buffet, a seven-course tasting menu, a two-course dinner, a massage, and entry into the fitness and spa areas. The hotel also happens to sit on the seventh fairway of the Prosper Golf Resort Celadna, where guests can arrange a lesson or a round.
Štramberk Ears and Tonak Hats
Heading northwest and winding back towards Ostrava, those with a sweet tooth and a bloodthirsty heart might pop into the picturesque mountain village of Štramberk, which has its own picturesque historic tower and a train station.
Folklore tells of an attempted attack here by the Tartars, who locals washed away by opening a dam. Behind them, the marauders left sackfuls of human ears, cut off as proof of success in battle. Some time afterwards but at least 800 years ago, an enterprising baker invented the “Štramberk Ear” – a mild spiced biscuit made in honour of the story.
And nearby, the “town of hats” Nový Jičín offers another fascinating destination, featuring a Renaissance-Baroque square and a hatmaking tradition that spans over four centuries. The area also boasts a rich industrial heritage, centered around Ostrava and its surroundings.
