Chitlang village, once known as the southern gateway to the Kathmandu Valley, has been on my bucket list for quite some time. Before the highway to Kathmandu came into existence, Chitlang was a host village to many commuters, ranging from pilgrims to royalty, en route to and from the Kathmandu Valley.
It is a fascinating fact that the locals of Chitlang caught a glimpse of the motor car before the people in Kathmandu city did, as the first car was carried into Kathmandu by an army of sixty porters in 1922. When Britain’s King Edward VIII drove one on a hunting trip in the Terai, the Rana rulers desired motor cars for themselves, and the vehicles had to be physically transported by porters back to the Valley.
Debendra, founder of Chitlang Organic Village Resort, loves to narrate the story of how the motor vehicles of the ruling Rana family were carried from Bhimphedi to Kathmandu via Chitlang. Many Nepalese visitors have absolutely no clue about the history of cars in Nepal. In fact, before cars carried people, people carried cars to Kathmandu.
Colonel William J. Kirkpatrick was one of the many commuters who fell in love with the Kathmandu Valley at first sight from Chandragiri Hill. He mentioned its beauty in his book, An Account of the Kingdom of Nepaul (1811). However, with modern development and the construction of roads and highways, the village of Chitlang, only 30 km away from Kathmandu city, was almost forgotten on the tourism map. For decades, the once-thriving village rarely saw visitors passing by.
In 2010, tourism became key to bringing back the lost glory of Chitlang village, as locals from the Kathmandu Valley started exploring this tourism destination, which remained unaffected by mass tourism. As well as enjoying ‘Dal Bhat’ made from locally grown vegetables and modest accommodation, visitors also have a ‘Eureka moment’ when they discover the goat cheese from Chitlang, which is sought after in a few outlets in Kathmandu.
Mr. Ashok Thakuri is the ‘Cheese Man’ who was trained in Belgium and France. He successfully produced goat cheese as a cottage industry. With the success of his cheese factory, he has also started a homestay business, which appears to be the most comfortable in the village, featuring attached baths, solar-heated showers, and WiFi. This clearly indicates the growing demand for better accommodation and higher prices. Indeed, many of the group members on our tour did not miss the opportunity to buy cheese as the most precious souvenir.
The traditional houses in Chitlang village are spread out into pockets of different ethnic groups, such as Newars, Brahmins, Chettris, and Tamangs. According to historians, King Amshuverma granted land to shepherds and established a settlement for them in Toukhel, Nhulgaun, Kunchhal, and other areas of Chitlang. Some historians believe that these people (Gopalis) are the descendants of rulers from the Gopal era. Chitlang also celebrates Newari festivals just as the Kathmandu Valley does. The Kartik Naach, a dance performed in Patan, Kathmandu Valley, in October-November, is undoubtedly the most popular one. A stone inscription in Majhgaon’s Ashoka Stupa dates back to the Licchavi Era (between the 5th and 8th centuries AD), further signifying the historic importance of the village.
Chitlang perfectly represents the current situation of the tourism industry. An alluring destination that holds generations of culture. Although Chitlang temporarily lost attention due to modernisation, it has retained its beauty over time. Similarly, despite the pandemic standing in the way of an entire industry, it is strongly believed that now is the time to breathe life back into tourism and experience history while creating another one in a sustainable manner.
