A gentle, mouth-watering aroma of grilled meat and vegetables rises from a round, flat metal pan, spreading warmth through the air. A server places the dish on the table, giving everyone a moment to savour its appearance and fragrance – soon to be followed by its taste. The products in the pot fall apart, tender, upon the touch of a fork. The meat’s aroma draws everyone to lean in and peek into the pan, curious to see what’s there. The meat’s savoury scent mingles with the scent of roasted vegetables, pulling everyone closer to the steaming dish. Surrounding the main course are all sorts of local Nakhchivani specialties – ayran, dolma, salads, and more – making the choice of which one to taste first a delicious dilemma.
Even choosing a potato or any other vegetable is a whole adventure, thanks to the tenderness of every piece. The taste is smoky, fresh, and juicy. A bite of a lifetime. Beyond potatoes, the dish also consists of lamb or beef, eggplant, onions, and tomatoes, allowing for a rich tapestry of flavours that balance each other. The locals call this dish sac, named after the pan, it’s cooked in – a round, flat metal vessel that sets it apart.
Yet this is just one of the many national dishes offered by Azerbaijani culture — particularly by the Autonomous Republic of Nakhchivan. Today, this Azerbaijani exclave is an example of self-sufficient agricultural produce due to its fruitful soil, suitable for cultivating different types of crops and rearing cattle. This abundance of local ingredients not only sustains the region but also shapes its culinary identity, where freshness and seasonality are inseparable.
At every meal, the table almost crumbles under the weight of fresh flatbreads, kebabs, different types of cheeses, and rich salads. Despite sounding deceptively simple, these dishes often blend different flavours, capturing the cultural essence of Azerbaijan. Due to being multiculturally influenced and being located at the crossroads of empires, Azerbaijani cuisine tends to be a seamless fusion of sweet and sour, light and heavy, warm and cold.
Here is a brief overview of local tastes that anyone should try.
1. Albali salad
To fully experience local food, trying Albali salad, which is a combination of sour cherry, tomatoes, red onions, and reyhan (basil), is essential. While sounding rather simple, this dish is an explosion for one’s tastebuds, offering a completely different perspective on tomatoes and sour cherries. What makes this salad so special isn’t the sour cherry or tomato, but rather the red sauce, which leaves anyone who tastes it longing for more.
The name albali means sour cherry in Azerbaijani, Turkish, and Persian, further adding to the richness of the salad. The uniqueness of this salad lies in its contrast and balance of sweet and sour flavours.
2. Dolma
Another traditional dish worth trying is dolma. In Azerbaijani culture, this dish traditionally consists of meat, rice, and herbs wrapped in fresh or preserved leaves of grapevines. While dolma is one of Azerbaijan’s traditional foods, foodies can encounter this dish in other parts of the world as well. The word “dolma” in Azerbaijani means “stuffed,” referring to the dish’s core concept: vegetables or leaves filled with a savoury mixture of ingredients. Each bite offers a comforting yet flavourful experience – simple in appearance, but rich in taste.
Dolma resembles the sarma which can be found and tasted in Eastern Europe, often referring to rice, meat, and herbs being wrapped in cabbage or grapevine leaves.
3. Ayran
Ayran is a cold savoury drink, consisting of yoghurt and water. Perfect for the summer days, this beverage suits well kebabs and heavy dishes because it provides a refreshing balance to the richness of the meat. While generally consisting of just yoghurt, water, and salt, often locals add herbs for extra flavour and balance. Moreover, it is widely used during the hot days to improve appetite and allow anyone to cool down and enjoy local flavours.
4. Ordubad Qayganag
For those with a sweet tooth, Nakhchivan offers a variety of sweets to explore and experience. One typical dessert worth tasting is Ordubad Qayganag. Prepared only in the Ordubad region of the Autonomous Republic of Nakhchivan, this delight is a rich, sweet explosion touching all senses. Prepared with eggs, butter, and honey, qayganag has the potential to awaken everyone’s senses with its warm sweetness.
Additionally, for locals, the preparation of qayganag is a tradition in itself. Ordubadis serve it drizzled with a syrup made of honey, for extra sweetness. Resembling a brain structure, once fully prepared, this dish is light, fluffy, and delicate. With its omelette-cake appearance and taste, it offers a truly unique experience – the kind you encounter only once in a lifetime.
5. Tea and jam
Azerbaijanis love tea. It is present after or during every meal, and in the Nakhchivan region, it is even more prevalent. Coffee culture however, is limited to instant coffee, so first-time visitors should prepare for loads of strong and freshly boiled tea. In some regions like Nakhchivan, locals add spices and herbs such as thyme and cinnamon, for a little twist, inviting tourists to have a taste of the local culture.
Tea is usually served in a pear-shaped little glass called armudu, accompanied by sliced lemon and delicious fruit jam. Whereas in Europe, tea would often be served with cookies, in Nakhchivan it is paired with jams. Interestingly, in this part of the country, one can taste different types of jam besides the usual strawberry, cherry, and peach. There are some more extravagant flavours such as walnut and eggplant, allowing food enthusiasts to gain a new perspective on jams and tickle their palate.
Moreover, people in Nakhchivan often boil water in a metal container known as a samovar. Many samovars have a ring-shaped attachment on top to hold and heat a teapot, to keep the tea warm.
The unique culture of tea in Azerbaijan is also part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage, as recognised on the Representative List in 2022.
You can try all these dishes and many more in most of the local restaurants, including Kəndimiz (Our Village) Restaurant and Batabat Restaurant. Curiously, locals prefer to have their meals in groups; therefore, most restaurants offer separate cabins or spots designed in different ways to allow a private and relaxed atmosphere.
