St Helena, an island so infamous for its isolation in the South Atlantic that Napoleon was exiled there, is opening its arms to more tourists.
More than 2,000 kilometres (1,200 miles) from the nearest land mass, it used to require five days aboard a cargo and postal ship to visit St Helena. But after the construction of St Helena Airport (HLE) in 2016, came the advent of weekly commercial flights from South Africa, from 2017. Amid the growth of slow travel, one of the world’s most remote populated places welcomed 2,100 tourists in 2023 and, now that high speed wi-fi has arrived too, the British territory is aiming to attract more visitors, and perhaps one day, digital nomads, to its shores.
Jamestown
British Georgian-era colonial buildings as well as new constructions await in the capital city, Jamestown. Bear in mind that just over 4,000 people (known as Saints) live on St Helena, so the capital’s retail offer is centred on small retail and grocers. On the topic of which, supplies are, understandably, subject to some unpredictability. Visitors to the island should be prepared to make do.
To view the town from above, those with the stamina can climb “Jacob’s Ladder”, a 699-step staircase up a fortified hill, leading to Half Tree Hollow – a suburb of Jamestown and St Helena’s largest settlement. Where donkey power and then funicular power once helped, leg power now has to suffice to get you up there.
Indeed, if you really want to test your leg power, you could time your trip so you can take part in the island’s annual November “Festival of Running”, which includes a timed run up Jacob’s Ladder. The record ascent was done in 5 minutes, 16.78 seconds.
Historic attractions
If history is more your thing, there are a number of Napoleon-based attractions. You can visit the defeated Emperor’s various homes and Valley of the Tomb, the place where he was first laid to rest in 1821, after six years of living in exile on the island.
For more history, Plantation House is just three kilometres away in St Paul’s district. Built in 1792 as a grand summer residence by the British East India Company, the elegant white Georgian edifice is now the Governor’s house. It has beautiful gardens and views over the landscape. Tours can be arranged.
Natural selection
When you’ve finished admiring the portraits and antique furnishings, and you’ve had refreshments, be sure to say hello to Jonathan, who, lives in the grounds and at 191, is thought to be the world’s oldest tortoise and possibly the last living example of the “Seychelles giant” species.
While we’re on the topic of nature, the island’s remoteness and range of microclimates and habitats, from cloud forests to rugged volcanic cliffs, fascinated Charles Darwin, and have ensured it is home to over 500 species found nowhere else on Earth.
Hikers can choose from 24 trails to explore the 121-square-kilometre island and its waterfalls, coastline, flora and fauna. Bird lovers will want to catch a glimpse of the St Helena plover, a species unique to the island. And between December and March, swimmers can get up close and personal with Chilean devil rays and whale sharks. Earlier in the year, from June, humpbacks are regular visitors.
Be aware
For the practicalities, those planning a trip to St Helena should be aware:
- There are no bank machines or ATMs on the island. Take enough currency for your needs and the £20 entry fee (you’ll need British pounds or St Helena’s Tourist Card app gives you the option of a prepaid wallet linked to your debit card).
- Though wi-fi is improving, aim to download any important items, such as maps or apps before you arrive.
- Driving on the island’s hairpin bends with a left-hand drive rental vehicle and a gear stick is a challenge you can avoid if you wish, by booking taxis to get around.
