Relais & Châteaux, a worldwide network of independent hotels and restaurants, says the campaign aligns with its long-standing mission to support the protection and regeneration of marine ecosystems.

Restaurants across Benelux commit to sustainable menus

In the Benelux region, participating properties include Hôtel Heritage, Kasteel van Ordingen, Le Chalet de la Forêt and Restaurant Zilte in Belgium; Hôtel Place d’Armes and Villa Pétrusse in Luxembourg; and Château St. Gerlach, Château Neercanne, Weeshuis Gouda, Het Roode Koper, Central Park Voorburg, Bij Jef (Texel), and Restaurant Da Vinci in the Netherlands.

Relais & Châteaux President Laurent Gardinier commented on the initiative, saying: “We believe that the future of hospitality and gastronomy goes together with protecting biodiversity.

“This collective initiative to remove threatened marine species from our menus reflects our responsibility as the biggest network of gastronomic restaurants in the world to inspire meaningful change.”

The group is asking its member chefs worldwide to stop serving at least one threatened marine species, depending on local stock levels. The commitment should remain in place until the species has recovered to a healthy level.

The list, developed in partnership with NGO Ethic Ocean, includes 18 species whose wild populations are under pressure from overfishing. In Europe, this includes the European eel (Anguilla anguilla), wild Atlantic salmon (Salmo salar), brown crab (Cancer pagurus), European hake (Merluccius merluccius) in the Mediterranean, and Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus).

Sustainability in action during National Ocean Month

Several Benelux properties have already taken action. Château St. Gerlach in Valkenburg, for example, is highlighting sustainably caught seabass at its Restaurant Les Salons during National Ocean Month in June. The fish is sourced from FAO 27, a Northeast Atlantic zone where fishing is responsibly managed.

Les Salons also offers a year-round vegetarian menu, a policy shared by Restaurant Château Neercanne and L’Auberge, both based in Maastricht.

Chef de Cuisine Robert Levels explained: “At Château Neercanne, we’re fortunate to have access to beautiful local ingredients, many of which we grow in our own garden.

“It’s wonderful to complement these with responsibly sourced fish that align with the principles of Relais & Châteaux. And by doing this together with other members, we can truly make an impact.”

Viki Geunes, chef at Zilte in Antwerp, added: “I have stopped serving or do not serve one or more threatened species at my property, and I pledge to keep it off our menu(s) until stocks recover.”

Relais & Châteaux has promoted marine biodiversity since 2009, when it signed the Ethic Ocean charter and committed to removing bluefin tuna from menus across the North-East Atlantic and Mediterranean. That move, along with other conservation efforts, contributed to reversing a sharp decline in tuna populations caused by decades of overfishing.

In 2023, the group expanded its campaign with “SOS for Biodiversity”, asking members to halt the use of various eel species. So far, 84 percent of members report they no longer serve eel, and 34 percent have formally removed it from their menus.

Ethic Ocean and Relais & Châteaux hope that continued commitment from chefs, producers and suppliers alike will drive further progress in protecting vulnerable marine species and supporting sustainable culinary practices.

L’article Benelux Chefs join global effort to remove threatened seafood from menus est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

In 2024, Alaska Airlines already embarked on a collaboration with San Francisco’s chef Brandon Jew. Following its success, the airline has now decided to expand the concept, introducing Chef’s (tray) Table, described as a rotating chef series featuring menus that change seasonally and spotlight regional talent.

We’re redefining inflight dining. Introducing Alaska Airlines Chef’s (tray) Table — our First Class dining program spotlighting top chefs from across the West Coast. Joining the lineup alongside Chef Brandon Jew is James Beard Award-winner Chef Brady Ishiwata Williams of… pic.twitter.com/6P2jRMN0Jo

— Alaska Airlines (@AlaskaAir) May 28, 2025

While Brandon Jew will once again be part of the initiative, the series will be debuted by chef Brady Ishiwata Williams. His restaurant Tomo in Seattle was named in honour of his grandmother Tomoko Ishiwata Bristol and the self-taught chef earned a James Beard Award for Best Chef. His cuisine reflects his Japanese American heritage and creativity according to Alaska Airlines.

“Every dish and ingredient carries a story, and I’m incredibly proud to partner with an airline that champions local business owners like me to bring elevated and culturally rooted cuisine to the skies. This collaboration has shown me how deeply Alaska cares about every detail — from carefully selecting its partners to food sourcing — and how committed they are to transforming your tray table into the chef’s table. These are dishes I make in the kitchen, and thanks to Alaska, I now get to share them with guests in the sky,” said chef Brady Ishiwata Williams.

According to Todd Traynor-Corey, Vice President of Guest Experience at Alaska Airlines, both chef Williams and chef Jew work tirelessly at their craft and remain deeply rooted in their communities. Their thoughtfully curated meals with high-quality ingredients should provide memorable guest experiences for those flying with the airline. 

Menu options and availability 

The exclusive menu curated by chef Brady Ishiwata Williams will be available on flights between Seattle and John F. Kennedy International Airport, Newark Liberty International Airport, and Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport from 5 June 2025 onwards. To personalize the dining experience, Alaska Airlines offers a digital pre-order system through its mobile app, allowing First Class guests to select their meals up to two weeks in advance. This initiative not only ensures meal preference availability but also aligns with the airline’s commitment to reducing food waste.

All passengers can make use of the First Class service, including those travelling in the Main Cabin. The menu includes a Mochi Waffle & Fried Chicken, Klingemann Farms Glazed Short Ribs and Buckwheat Soba with Ahi-Tuna Tataki.

Alaska Airlines’ launch of the “Chef’s (tray) Table” marks a bold move to elevate its premium service. By focusing on chef-driven menus and regional flair, the airline is aiming to stand out and provide passengers with a refined inflight experience.

L’article Alaska Airlines introduces new First Class dining experience Chef’s ‘tray’ Table est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Reuten, a celebrated culinary artist, made history in 2017 when she won the Woman of the Year award, an accolade presented annually by Relais & Châteaux in collaboration with Champagne Pommery. The award recognises outstanding female leaders in the hospitality sector, celebrating those who have elevated industry standards and paved the way for future generations.

Her restaurant, Da Vinci, is a tribute to the legendary Renaissance thinker, Leonardo da Vinci, whom she admires for his diverse talents and innovative mindset. This philosophy is reflected in her culinary creations, which feature locally sourced ingredients, including meat from her family farm in Maasbracht, and French-inspired dishes enhanced with edible flowers.

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Our profession is rooted in dedication and discipline. It is a beautiful craft where you gain new insights every day. However, maintaining high performance and continuous innovation requires discipline.

Beyond personal success, Reuten is passionate about mentorship and passing on knowledge to the next generation: “You must embrace life and understand people — only then can you keep growing and creating. Passing on this knowledge and passion is an essential part of my work.”

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Ten years of honouring women in hospitality

The Woman of the Year award marks its tenth anniversary this year, continuing its tradition of celebrating female leaders in the hospitality industry. Over the past decade, the initiative has recognised visionary women who have transformed the sector, championing progress and inclusivity.

For 2025, the prestigious award was presented to Kaitlin Ross, General Manager of Relais & Châteaux Sonora Resort in Canada. Ross has pioneered new approaches in maritime tourism, challenging industry norms and paving the way for future leaders.

“The Woman of the Year trophy is a powerful source of inspiration. It demonstrates that women can shape and redefine the hospitality industry. Young women entering the field see that their contributions matter and are encouraged to pursue their passions, challenge the status quo, and forge their own paths,” she concluded.

Relais & Châteaux: a legacy of excellence

Founded in 1954, Relais & Châteaux unites 580 exceptional hotels and restaurants worldwide, all independently operated and dedicated to culinary and hospitality excellence.

In the Benelux region, the following hotels and restaurants are part of Relais & Châteaux:

• Belgium: Hotel Heritage, Kasteel van Ordingen, Le Chalet de la Forêt, and Zilte
• Luxembourg: Hotel Le Place d’Armes
• The Netherlands: Château Sint Gerlach, Château Neercanne, Weeshuis Gouda, Het Roode Koper, Central Park Voorburg, Restaurant Da Vinci, and Bij Jef in Texel.

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Margo Reuten’s leadership at Da Vinci exemplifies the spirit of excellence that Relais & Châteaux celebrates. As the only female Michelin-starred chef in the Netherlands, she continues to push culinary boundaries, mentor future generations, and inspire women in hospitality.

L’article Meet Margo Reuten: the only female Michelin-starred chef in the Netherlands est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

If you’ve always wondered what top athletes such as the players of PSG like to eat, this is your chance. The book À table avec le Paris Saint-Germain is scheduled to be released on November 9^th and will comprise no less than seventy recipes, inspired by the favourite dishes of ten of PSG’s players. The recipes have been adapted by the Michelin starred chef David Toutain in collaboration with the team’s nutritionist Juan José Morillas.

« A table avec le Paris Saint Germain » par le chef @davidtoutain sortira le 9 novembre chez @EditionsAmphora https://t.co/QlAWiKaPAD pic.twitter.com/x7tMV6c03l

— Livres de Foot (@FootLivres) October 13, 2023

For the consumer, other than the sporty type and the footballer, there will always be something to learn about a recipe in this book.

David Toutain, the Michelin Starred Chef

Star worthy recipes at an affordable price

All recipes have two things in common: they’re fairly affordable to cook at home and they are healthy (or as healthy as possible). Gianluigi Donnarumma, Vitinha, Ousmane Dembélé, Marquinhos, Achraf Hakimi, Kylian Mbappé, Presnel Kimpembe, Warren Zaïre-Emery, Danilo Pereira and Kang-in Lee are the ten players that have contributed to the book.

“All players present seven of their favourite recipes, such as the feijoada à la Marquinhos, the childhood veggie couscous as remembered by Achraf Hakimi and the famous crêpes à la Presnel Kimpembe” revealed Les Editions Amphora.

As of November 9^th, À table avec le Paris Saint-Germain will be available in French bookshops for 24,95€.

L’article Michelin star chef releases a cookbook inspired by PSG players’ favourite meals est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Starting from October 1, 2023, passengers will be able to embark on a culinary journey in the clouds, with Vrijmoed being the fourteenth Michelin-starred chef to collaborate with the airline since 2013, delivering an experience that celebrates Belgian gastronomy.

As an airline, we introduce the world to delicacies originating from our country. We are happy that with Michaël Vrijmoed we can again put our local products and recipes in the spotlight.

Philip Mortier, Inflight Product Manager of Brussels Airlines

In a tradition that began a decade ago with Michelin-starred chef Geert Van Hecke, Brussels Airlines continues to showcase the culinary prowess of Belgian Star Chefs by offering travelers a three-course menu crafted from typically Belgian recipes and ingredients.

From October onwards, Business Class passengers will savor the culinary creations of Michelin-starred chef Michaël Vrijmoed, who succeeds chef Mario Elias. These menus will rotate every three months to highlight the best of seasonal produce, with Belgian vegetables taking the center stage in the gourmet menus.

As part of this gastronomic voyage, passengers can complement their meals with carefully selected Belgian wines curated by Master of Wine, Jan De Clercq, while beer sommelier Sofie Vanrafelghem has handpicked local Belgian beers to accompany the dishes, “such as Steenuilke, Liefmans Goudenband and Adriaen Brouwer Oaked. All three are brewed by traditional Belgian breweries such as De Ryck, Liefmans and Roman”, Philip Mortier, Inflight Product Manager of Brussels Airlines, highlighted.

“As a Michelin-starred chef, it is a privilege to be allowed to cook for the business class travelers of Brussels Airlines”, the East Flanders chef stated. “Through my creations for Brussels Airlines, I will introduce the world amongst others to tasty Belgian vegetables, accompanied by some East Flemish regional beers and cheeses from cheese refiner Van Tricht”.

Vrijmoed’s culinary journey began as a sous-chef at Hof van Cleve, where he worked alongside top chef Peter Goossens. In 2013, he ventured out on his own, establishing the Vrijmoed restaurant in Ghent, which has since gained recognition as one of the finest vegetable-focused restaurants in the world. He follows in the footsteps of Peter Goossens, becoming the second East Flanders chef to collaborate with Brussels Airlines.

One of the remarkable aspects of Vrijmoed’s culinary artistry is his profound focus on vegetables, this commitment is evident in the menus he has crafted for Brussels Airlines, offering Business Class travelers a choice between fish, meat, or vegetarian options for both starters and main courses.

“Passengers can choose from two starters, one of them being my signature dish: beetroot (with Doyenné du Comice pear, mustard seed, and horseradish sauce). As a main course, we serve a celeriac variation (with soil-grown chicory and crispy Jerusalem artichoke) as a vegetarian choice. To conclude, passengers can choose from a cheese platter with East Flanders classics like Belgian Wittekop or Biloete, two cheeses from East Flanders’ Lotenhulle, or Hazelnut chocolate cake with a vanilla-coffee sauce for dessert”, Vrijmoed revealed.

L’article Two-Michelin star Belgian chef joins Brussels Airlines est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

She was born in deep, agricultural France in Le Tranclière, near Lyon, on June 12, 1895, at the height of the Belle Époque. This is the era when cinema was born with the Lumière brothers. The cabaret epic begins. Her family is extremely poor. Already at the age of five, she is tasked with looking after pigs. At the age of ten, her childhood is marked by the death of her mother, whose affection she will remember, but also her dishes. She lives with her father, who will send her away from home when she is nineteen, as soon as he learns that she is pregnant.

I went to school, by chance, only in winter and when there was no work at home.

Eugénie Brazier

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Eugénie does not lose heart: she is illiterate and without any educational qualifications. She gets herself hired at a restaurant run by women only. She quickly wins the favor of the clientele with her skills. The success she achieved with her culinary talents encouraged her to open in 1921 a small establishment of her own, known as the “Club des Cent”.

She moved to a larger restaurant on Rue Royale in central Lyon, which is the site of the present-day La Mère Brazier. In 1928 she opened a second restaurant, also called La Mère Brazier at Col de la Luère. Her most popular dishes, including Belle Aurore lobster with brandy, crayfish gratin and artichoke bottoms with foie gras, would win her her first three prestigious Michelin stars in 1933, to be joined by three more in 1939.

She thus became the first woman starred cook. In the Milliat pasteria, her poor dishes were gradually enriched with cream and milk, mushrooms and truffles. This marked the leap to catering, with the help of the famous Mère Fillioux, in the school of poularde demi-deuil, game and artichoke bottoms with foie gras.

Success spread swiftly by word of mouth from customer to customer. Her restaurants were totally occupied by the so-called beautiful world. People like Rita Hayworth, Jacques Prévert, Marlene Dietrich and Charles de Gaulle visited the restaurant. She was in demand at the Waldorf Astoria in New York and the Ritz in Paris, but she did not move from the vicinity of Lyon, which became the gastronomic capital of the world.

After World War II, his son Gaston ran the establishment on rue Royale, while his mother remained at the Col de la Luère. It was there that Paul Bocuse, from 1946, perfected his apprenticeship and later Bernard Pacaud. In 1951, after the silence of the Michelin during the war, La Mère Brazier regained her three pre-war stars, but lost one in 1960, as she was considering retirement. She then decided to go back to work and, as of 1963, regained the first rank until 1968. The two stars will be kept until March 1974, year of the death of her son.

With the simplicity and authenticity of her dishes, which are few and the same, she became the progenitor of “Nouvelle cuisine.” She is called the greatest cook of all time, a pillar of world gastronomy, as her most famous pupil, Paul Bocuse said.

She died in 1977 but Bocuse (1926-2018) managed to get the teachings of his mentor published in ”La Mère Brazier, the mother of French cooking.” Brazier is remembered for her dedication and unyielding creativity.

L’article Meet the first person to receive 6 Michelin stars est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

1. Who is Salt Bae?

Nusret Gökçe is a Turkish butcher and chef born in Paşalı, a village in the Erzurum Province of Türkiye, in 1983. Being one of five children in Kurdish family of few means, he was forced to leave school at the age of 12 to start helping his dad, who worked as a miner, provide for the family.

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He worked as a butcher’s apprentice, wishing to one day open his own restaurant. After a learning trip to Argentina, he opened his first restaurant in Istanbul at the age of 27, which, he claims, turned over £4,500 on the first day. With investment from Turkish businessman Ferit Sahenk, he branched out in Ankara, Dubai and Doha, establishing the Nusr-Et chain of luxury steakhouses.

2. Becoming famous

Gökçe became famous after a video of himself sprinkling salt on stake by letting it slide on his arm went viral in January 2017. It was this video that brought the Turkish butcher the nickname of Salt Bae, with the hashtag #SaltBae starting trending on twitter.

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Two days later, Bruno Mars tweeted a screenshot of the video, which boosted Gökçe’s internet presence that much more. Salt Bae quickly became a meme.

The new internet sensation drew the attention of many celebrities, who were mesmerised by the video and decided to see Gökçe in action. Leonardo DiCaprio visited his restaurant in Dubai less than a month later, in February 2017, which the chef, who by this time had embraced his thirsty nickname, promptly documented on social media.

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Despite some pointing out his salt sprinkling is unsanitary – even if he thoroughly washes his arms all the way up, there is still a possibility of unwanted arm hair ending up on customers’ steak, Salt Bae kept on rising. He opened his first restaurant in the US the following year. He now has 22 restaurants in different locations, from New York to London to Dubai and other exotic locales, as well as owning a lucrative business selling meat, all of which bears the chef’s seal of quality.

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3. FIFA

After the closing ceremony of the World Cup, at Lusail Stadium in Qatar, Gokce was seen on the field taking pictures with the Argentinian players and even holding the trophy.

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The footballers did not look very happy with the encounter and tried to avoid the butcher, especially Messi, who seemed particularly annoyed. In the end, the striker couldn’t get away without taking a picture with Gokce.

Besides disturbing the players and the still unresolved mystery of how he gained access to the field, he broke rules by holding the trophy, which, according to FIFA rules, only “a very select group of people” are allowed to touch. The football association has launched an investigation on “how individuals gained undue access to the pitch after the closing ceremony” and stated that appropriate internal action will be taken.

L’article Who is Salt Bae and why is he famous? est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

But just like with any specialty dish, there are a lot of possible variations. Not all are made equal, clearly. When a dish is made over and over again, there are often quite a bit of details that get lost in the process. Those bastardized versions aren’t always bad, to be clear. Sometimes, they’re even better than the original. But there always has to be one base version, one recipe which everyone keeps in the back of their mind for reference.

Paella or Arroz con cosas?

The Universidad Católica de Valencia has now carried out a study to find out which are the one and only ‘original’ paella ingredients. In order to do so, they asked 400 chefs from 266 Valencian villages for their opinion. The results of the study were presented under the title ‘A nightmare glocal discussion: what are the ingredients of paella valenciana?’ and published in the International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science. And even the most fervent paella lovers might be surprised by the results.

According to the local chefs, only ten ingredients should be allowed in a paella: rice, water, olive oil, salt, saffron (or food colouring), tomato, flat green beans, lima beans, chicken and rabbit. That means no fish, no seafood, no other additions. Some ingredients, however, were the object of discussion. 62% of the chefs thought paprika was acceptable, 52% thought rosemary should be added to the list and 45% would consider adding artichokes when in season.

As soon as one’s experimenting too much with other additions, Valencians tend to call this dish ‘arroz con cosas’ or ‘rice with things’. No wonder, with all these very clear opinions, that the paella was declared as a cultural asset by the region’s government last year. It is, according to them, “an icon of the Mediterranean diet, because of both its ingredients and its characteristics as a representation of Valencian culture”.

L’article These are the only ingredients that Valencian chefs recommend you use in paella est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

I sampled some of his food surrounded by deep green walls and Portuguese ceramics, and he took time out from the kitchen to come and talk to me.

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How would you describe your journey as a chef?

What I’ve come to understand is that I want to cook using the things that are naturally all around me. It doesn’t necessarily make sense for me to cook with all sorts of seafood, for example, not here, on the banks of the river Tejo, where I have freshwater ingredients in abundance. Cooking is a sensory experience and I want to work with local, regional produce that I can touch and engage with.

And that engagement includes you working with local producers of rare and forgotten ingredients in order to perfect their products. Was there any resistance from them or were they just pleased to find a wider audience for their produce?

It’s not difficult at all. They are very keen, eager to find new ways to work and bring their produce to market. In fact, nearly every day, more and more artisanal producers come to present their goods to me.

As if on cue, out comes the next dish on our tasting menu. It’s called ‘Tentacles and horns.’ To some, the name alone might be a little off-putting, but you get the feeling Castelo has little time for squeamishness. It’s not about bravura. It’s about respecting and making of what’s available. He murmurs softly, ‘Giant squid from the Azores and matured beef. Yam purée. Beef bone broth. Cockle hollandaise.  Reduction of herb oil.’

I’m about to ask another question, but ‘a look’ passes over Castelo’s face. He is suddenly elsewhere. He rises and goes to the kitchen, not annoyed exactly but, there’s something about the food that’s been put in front of us that he’s not quite satisfied with. I feel almost nervous for his team, until I hear laughter. I eat and everything is exquisite of course. He returns to our conversation with a smile.

What’s the produce you’re most excited about working with right now?

The freshwater fish. The matured beef. The castrated goat. I like these old animals. Matured for a long time. You have more flavour and the taste is more intense. It’s a slower approach.

What are your ambitions for the future?

This isn’t a restaurant that you can just lift up and take to another place. You have to concentrate on here. It only makes sense here. Here is where the products I love are. Here is where my roots are. It’s not a restaurant that you can turn into a chain. It’s a bespoke experience. Exclusive in some ways, I suppose.

And turning to your roots for a moment. We’ve seen the wine you’ve dedicated to your father. Obviously your relationship with him was very important. Could you tell us more about that??

For my family, being around the table together was essential. Everything was discussed and solved around the table. My father, while not a professional, was an exceptional cook. So, I learned to cook around the age of eight, at my father’s side.

That’s very young!

Yes. But I didn’t turn professional until the age of 33. Before that I worked in the pharmaceutical industry and in sales of specialist devices.

Did your previous career in the pharmaceutical industry influence the way you put together flavours and textures?

I think what it’s taught me is we are what we eat and sometimes it takes years and years of work and research to perfect something. The pharmaceutical industry gave me that understanding of how you build towards something, the process and discipline behind it all.

Was it a challenge to your loved ones when they witnessed you taking that homely tradition of your family table and turning it into something more sophisticated?

Of course, in the beginning it was a bit scary. Local diners here in Santarém were perhaps not used to the smaller portion sizes, the complexity or refinement. But it grew on them. And of course, the restaurant’s success confirmed that this was the right direction to go in. When the media started paying attention and I started getting invitations to events, people saw it was the start of something.

So, if your focus on local links and provenance mean that this is not a model that is easily replicated or leads to world domination, what’s next? Obviously, you’re a perfectionist and an ambitious person, so how will you satisfy those aspects of his personality?

I can’t tell you! It’s a secret! 

It’s true that I’m never satisfied. I always want to do better. But honestly, my biggest satisfaction is a quick one, an immediate one. Here I can see straight away if people are enjoying the food, or not. It’s plain to see by their reaction. The thing I love the most is to make people happy and to know that people leave here, feeling ‘Wow!’

Also, a healthy working environment, and happy people working around me, those things are really important. I’ve been involved in the past with helping to establish restaurants in Lisbon, coming up with the menu or concept or whatever, but nowadays, I want more hands-on, personal involvement. I want to create. I want to be able to live my life here in Santarém. I’ve been abroad, worked elsewhere . . . I’ve done all that and it’s not what I want now.

Being happy where you are is a great richness.

It’s funny you should say that. There’s a singer who sings about the grass always being greener on the other side, who says, ‘I’m always happiest wherever I’m not.’ In fact, I actually own another restaurant, and it’s called, ‘My Neighbour’s Chicken’. But that’s not what I feel here in Santarém. Here I’m building something, following my path.

And talking of following your own path, what’s your own favourite thing to eat?

You can’t ask a chef that question!

I love fish. Freshwater fish. Lovely fat fish like salmon or trout. Fatty meat. That’s what gives the flavour! But at the same time, I always like a little bit of acidity to cut through. A good meal is like going to the theatre to see a play. You watch a scene and it closes, and a new scene begins. You need to be able to taste and feel a variety of things.

In every dish I want people to experience a feast – salty, sweet, acidic – and I want people to be able to identify the individual elements.

I think back to another dish we had earlier: Caramelised pear slices. Nut broth. River mullet. Thinly sliced belly. Vinegar and onion marinade. Geranium leaf like dynamite.

How would you introduce children to new flavours?

Maybe learning to cook. My seven-year-old daughter is learning to cook right now. And she eats everything. She wants to taste everything. She’s even younger than I was. The first meal I learned to cook was beef with French fries and an egg, a fried egg. It’s a really traditional thing. It’s called Bitoque. Served with rice. 

And what’s her specialty?

She can do a really good ham and cheese omelette – which isn’t so easy actually. Lots of grown-ups can’t make a decent omelette. She has great knife skills and helps me chop things. She can properly cook a piece of beef. And cod with French fries and egg.

Talking of the future of cooking, what’s your feeling about how restaurants are going to survive the pandemic? Is the answer local produce? Having an outside space? Is it just who can hang on the longest? Partnerships? What’s your sense of how the industry will come through?

In a way, if you look at everything from a certain perspective, I wonder if we didn’t contribute to the pandemic somehow. If it wasn’t maybe a product of human activity, of us forgetting our roots. But I don’t know what’s going to happen. I am just trying to take it one day at a time.

What would his advice to a young chef be?

Not everything is lemon.

I dutifully note down this rather philosophical response, before realising it’s the name of the next dish that has arrived. A pre-pudding, or palate freshener if you will. It’s perfectly balanced – a lemony lime quenelle, with candied fruit, sweet crumbs and a caramel sauce.

We eat and talk about tradition. In tiny French villages, I say, there are bread-automats. They are filled up with bread in the morning and even though there’s no longer a boulangerie, you can go and buy your loaf from a vending machine. Some people would never have thought it possible that the French would buy their bread in such a way! What do you say to that?

That happens in some rural places here too. Things change. People adapt to circumstance. Curing food to make it last for example. Here in the restaurant we cure all our fish. People have always needed to find new ways to eat. We use sugar, gas and water, smoking. Gas and water creates osmosis. It can be surprising.

Talking of surprises, out comes a little box of dominoes – a gift to all tasting menu diners. Inside is a list of what we ate and a small dedication from Rodrigo Castelo:

One of my strongest memories of being around the Ribatejo table, is the memory of dominoes. It’s a game that reminds me of my father and grandfather. I hope that the time spent at my table today lives on in your memory too.

See you soon!

L’article Around the Ribatejo table with chef Rodrigo Castelo est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

The history of Asliddin Khasanov’s family bakery began with his grandfather, who started the tradition of baking Samarkand bread. Asliddin himself has been making bread since 1991 – over 30 years. “I started baking on my own at the age of 14. That day my father died.” The working day of the Khasanov family begins at three o’clock in the morning and finishes at 5-6pm. If they start baking at this time, then by 9am, the first batch of fresh bread is ready. Bread is prepared five to six times a day, depending on how many orders are received. Asliddin Khasanov has five children – three sons and two daughters. The two eldest sons, Ibrohim and Normurod, help their father with the cooking process, while his wife and daughters help decorate the loaves, and their grandmother sells ready-cooked bread in the bazaar.

For the baking of Samarkand bread, the work of male hands is desirable. When you knead dough, you need strength. Well, according to tradition, only men were involved in making bread.

Asliddin Khasanov

A legend tells that once the khan of Bukhara asked his advisors why bread was brought from Samarkand to Bukhara, and if it could be baked in Bukhara. He was told that only bread baked in Samarkand would be tasty, but the Emir did not believe the advisors. He sent people to Samarkand to find the best breadmaker in the city and ordered him to bake bread in Bukhara. But the bread still didn’t work out as it should. The advisors thought hard and racked their brains, and decided that the reason was because of the ingredients. They brought a tandoor from Samarkand, along with flour, water and absolutely everything that was required. But even then, the bread did not turn out the same as in Samarkand. Then the master said: ‘It’s probably because of the air.’ However, the air could not be transported, so soon he was allowed to return home, and people began again, as before, to carry bread from Samarkand.

Every guide in Samarkand knows the house of Asliddin Khasanov the baker. Tourists visit the bakery with great interest, watching the process of making a crispy, steaming Samarkand loaf. The moment of greatest joy is in taking a delicious piece of Samarkand home to share it with loved ones. Breaking bread is like touching the history of the city, because the recipes have been used for centuries. This bread is famous for its taste and special properties that mean it does not harden for a long time. A real Samarkand loaf, kept at room temperature, can be saved and eaten for up to 10-14 days. Put it in the fridge and it can be stored for two to three months.

According to another legend, the bread was made to be long lasting so that soldiers could take it with them on campaigns. The bread never became mouldy, and all that was needed was a sprinkle of water before reheating and the loaves would regain their original shape and freshness. It is a special mission for Asliddin Khasanov’s children to continue the family tradition. “There is no secret ingredient in Samarkand bread. We make it from flour, yeast, water and salt. It all depends on the method of cooking and, of course, the love put into this bread,” says Khasanov.

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