All along this meandering valley in western Germany, farmers are out in the June sunshine, clambering across slate embankments to inspect their beloved crops.

But times are changing in the Mittelmosel surrounding the postcard-pretty town of Cochem. The wine business isn’t what it used to be, and the much-needed tourism it feeds is facing steep challenges, too.

The first thing you notice is that visitors to the area are getting older and they’re more self-sufficient than ever before, staying in their comfortable RVs and cruising the river on their e-bikes.

The region is a “stronghold” for mature and senior visitors (typically aged 55+), though regional tourism strategies are successfully drawing younger “active travellers” (35-50), according to the Tourism and Marketing Office in Trier, a heritage-laden city downriver.

Local businesses are having to adapt to new realities. Hotels, restaurants, wine houses and zimmers have either found new niches to get the zippy bikers to stop in for a local treat, adjusted their opening times, or closed for good.

This is the reality of an increasingly competitive tourism sector here in Germany, but also in other European regions, as pointed out by the EU Tourism Platform.

For starters, wine-tasting weekends are less popular among younger generations who don’t drink as much as their parents, and don’t have spare cash even if they did. As “digital nomads,” they may even prefer to combine work and travel in far-flung destinations like Thailand. Low-cost airlines and better connections make it cheaper and easier too.

That’s a great shame because the Rhineland-Palatinate Holiday Region, as they like to call it, has so much to offer, and it’s only a few hours from major capitals. The pace of life is somehow different, as chilled as the crisp white wines produced here.

Powerful natural forces

A mother swan glides along the river’s edge with this year’s fluffy, grey brood in tow. Farm hands work their way along vine rows, trimming and tidying the already lush growth. In picking season, they will navigate the banks on cable-driven elevators.

It hasn’t always been so tranquil. Powerful natural forces have shaped the Rhenish Massif spanning western Germany, eastern Belgium, Luxembourg and northeastern France. This looping topography is responsible for the hyper-steep, south-facing slopes bathing this cool climate region in warming sunlight. Great for wine-growing, but the historically fast-flowing waterway has also been known to throw seasonal tantrums.

Thanks to huge engineering projects in the mid-20^th century – including a network of locks and barrages – the river has been mostly tamed into a more dependable transport lane. It’s not uncommon today to see cargo barges laden with industrial goods sharing the water with multi-deck cruise boats.

Yet, nature still has its way sometimes. A prolonged heat wave in 2022 nearly crippled shipping along the Mosel and Rhine rivers. Floods (Hochwasser) remain a scourge as well, with the most recent occurring last year. Esplanades, campsites and parking lots in several riverside towns like Zell and Cochem were hit hard. Climate change could make these events more common.

Two wheels, two banks on a loop

For those exploring by land, the bike lanes are smooth sailing for e-biking baby boomers. Paths flank both sides of the Mosel, making it a neat circuit. Cyclists can pedal down one bank, cross a bridge or small passenger ferry, and return up or down the opposite side. That means new sites and scenes at every turn.

Those with time and money to spare can quickly and safely navigate the river and surrounding terrain. What was once a punishing trek is now a gentle, assisted cruise. Couples clad in matching high-vis garb glide effortlessly past medieval backdrops, their panniers packed with picnics and wine.

The undisputed hub of the lower Mosel is Cochem, a bustling town dominated by the Reichsburg (Imperial) Castle, a fairy-tale fortress looming above the vines and timber-framed houses below. Visitors can explore Cochem’s winding alleyways, ride the Sesselbahn chairlift for a panorama of the river and surrounding peaks, or explore the Bundesbank Bunker – a once-secret underground vault that hid billions of Deutsche Marks during the Cold War.

Continuing south, cyclists encounter Beilstein, affectionately known as the “Sleeping Beauty of the Mosel”. Squeezed almost unnaturally between the vines and a bend in the river, this well-preserved medieval village is paternally watched over by the ruins of Metternich Castle. The town’s quirky architecture and cobbled passages have graced many films and holiday albums over the years.

Northern soul you can taste

Visitors love the atmosphere, but no trip to Beilstein or the region is complete without sampling some fresh Rieslings or floral Rivaners. This ‘tasting experience’ is rooted in the traditional Weinhäuser taverns and Straußwirtschaften – makeshift bars run by vintners within their own courtyards and cellars.

The wine culture and distinct flavour notes are a product of the valley’s unique geology, positioning and slatey soil that absorbs heat during the day and distributes it overnight. The end result is German wines with an unmistakable northern soul.

A signature stony minerality, a crisp taste described by those who know such things as “wet stones or rain on hot pavement”. Experts also wax on about “vibrant and sharp acidity” with some “bright and citrus” notes worthy of their warmer southern cousins.

Flammkuchen and other fare

Such distinct vinous profiles demand a culinary counterweight. The food culture of the Mosel Valley is unpretentious, hearty and designed to complement the acidity of the drier whites. Menus feature rich pork dishes, hotpots and locally sourced trout.

But the region’s go-to accompaniment is the traditional flammkuchen (tarte flambée). Originating in the Franco-German borderlands, this flatbread is traditionally topped with schmand (similar to crème fraiche) or scattered generously with smoked lardons (speck), finely sliced onions, and often seasoned with nutmeg.

Traditionally baked in wood-fired ovens for just a few minutes, the edges crisp up while the centre tends to remain soft. The salty, smokiness of this pizza-like tarte is a gastronomic foil to an off-dry Mosel wine.

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A Gen-Z story

Beneath the idyllic surface of this postcard-primed destination, a striking demographic and socio-economic story emerges. Look closely at the patrons stopping for a mid-afternoon tasting these days, and you can’t fail to notice a pattern. Where are the Gen-Zers?

Data confirms a widening behavioural gap. Today, only 18% of young people aged 18 to 31 drink German wine regularly, and fewer still (11%) opt for sparkling varieties or Sekt. For the 39% who do drink, according to a study quoted by the newspaper Die Rheinpfalz, wine is no longer their default; they prefer spirits and ready-to-drink options.

Other ‘drug affinity’ studies in Germany show that those born after 2000 who do enjoy a tipple are opting for organic wines or the increasingly popular category of ‘no or low’ alcohol alternatives neatly branded as ‘NoLo’.

This pattern replaces the traditional all-or-nothing drinking culture. The mindset of Gen-Z drinkers, according to industry observers like Verallia, is more focused on moderation, wellness and sophisticated socialising. Another trend driving NoLo growth, notes this glass bottle and packaging company, is “zebra striping” or alternating alcoholic beverages with NoLo drinks.

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Social and behavioural changes are only half the story. Cost-of-living concerns are a key factor as well. Higher real estate and mortgage costs, steep rent and persistent day-to-day inflationary pressures mean less disposable income across the board for weekend jollies on the Mosel. And premium bottles of wine are simply out of reach for younger consumers.

Competition is another factor. If a young traveller is going to spend limited savings on a holiday, a weekend getaway to the cooler climes of northwestern Europe has less appeal. Easy connections between European capitals and tropical destinations like Phuket and Krabi are a more exotic option for Gen-Zers.

To complicate matters, the German wine industry is battling its own fiscal demons. Rising energy and material costs for glass bottles and increases in the national minimum wage have squeezed profit margins at family-run estates.

While reports of some regions in France being paid to pull up vines to combat oversupply, Mosel vintners are instead facing a quiet crisis of attrition, struggling to pass increased production costs onto a price-sensitive domestic market.

Quiet crossroads

This shift is leaving its mark on local populations. Where tourism and the wine industry have long sustained quiet villages tucked between the vines and the water, that calm certitude is starting to fray.

It is late June – not quite peak summer, but certainly the cusp of the season – and yet many of the local businesses remain closed during the week. Some permanently. In Briedern, one hotel-restaurant seems to be bucking the trend. Business is steady, but staff are under no illusions. A local waitress laments that her establishment feels a bit like “the last man standing”, a winner-takes-all in a town trying to keep up.

While larger, castle-crowned destinations like Cochem and Beilstein still draw the daytime crowds, the smaller intermediate villages appear to be feeling the squeeze.

The vineyards of the Mosel are not about to disappear. Devoted farmers still nurture their crops, and the landscape remains as breathtaking as ever. But as the traditional wine-tourist demographic ages, the region faces a crossroads.

Planning your Mosel visit

Getting there and around

• By car: Distance from Brussels to Cochem is around 340 km or a 3.5-hour drive, depending on traffic.
• By public transport: Regular rail links via Eurostar or ICE trains from Brussels-Midi to Cologne (Köln) or Koblenz. From Koblenz, local regional trains (Moseltal-Bahn) run to Cochem station. The fastest combined routes take over 4 hours.
• Mosel river cruises: Local operators such as Gebrüder Kolb run daily schedules. Options include short panoramic loops from Cochem and scenic “lock cruises” through the Fankel barrage to Beilstein.

Historic sites

• Reichsburg Cochem (Imperial Castle): Open daily for the summer season. Interior visits are accessible via guided tours only.
• Burg Metternich (Beilstein): Through the town and up a steep stairway, the hillside ruins are open daily except Mondays.

Top-rated places to stay

(Based on Booking.com and TripAdvisor guest satisfaction reports, as of 15 June 2026)

In Cochem

• Hotel Villa Vie Cochem (Rating: 9.3/10): A boutique-style hotel located a short walk from the centre with river views.
• Hotel Altes Winzerhaus (Rating: 9.2/10): A family-run B&B sitting directly on the promenade with direct views of the Reichsburg.
• Hotel Villa Vinum Cochem (Rating: 9.1/10): Featuring natural stone architecture and timber-framed accents, the hotel has an upscale vibe.

In Beilstein

• Hotel Lipmann ‘Am Klosterberg’ (Rating: 9.3/10): Rustic and well-situated, overlooking the historic town squares and rolling vineyards.
• Hotel Restaurant Alte Stadtmauer (Rating: 9.2/10): Guests appreciate the hospitality and characterful setting integrated into the village’s old defences.
• Hotel Haus Burg Metternich (Rating: 8.6/10): Traditional charm and a gateway for exploring the castle trail and cobblestone lanes.

L’article Discovering Germany’s Mosel Valley: A journey through vineyards, castles and river villages est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Just a short train (or energetic bike) ride from Amsterdam, and you enter the altogether more refined vibe of Haarlem – a canal-lined city of around 169,000. Despite its proximity to top European travel destinations like the Keukenhof tulip fields, Haarlem retains an authentic and unflustered character, richly storied without being overwhelmed by tourism. It impresses through its intimacy, heritage, and proximity.

Exploring Holland, a tourism site, places Haarlem high on its ‘hidden gems’ list: “Often overshadowed by its larger neighbour, Haarlem has a unique character, with its beautiful canals, medieval architecture, and vibrant cultural scene.” But it was not always the bridesmaid. 

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The city was once one of the most important centres of trade and art in the Netherlands, with famous sons (and daughters) including 16^th and 17^th-century painters, Frans Hals, Judith Leyster, and Jacob van Ruisdael. Today, it offers a “perfect blend of old-world charm and modern amenities, making it an ideal destination for visitors looking to explore a lesser-known Dutch treasure”, according to Exploring Holland.

Staff at the Haarlem Tourist Office (VVV) more cheekily refer to their city as Amsterdam’s more discreet and “wise little sister”. Their insider tips help to make a one, two, or three-day trip to the North Holland region worthwhile. Popular sites are the Grote Markt, St Bavo Church, Frans Hals Museum, Teylers Museum, and Corrie ten Boom House, while the Museum of Applied European Art (MUTEK) is a lesser-known treat tucked into Haarlem’s Art Deco central train station. It’s a unique experience, the staff point out, because you have to check in through the station turnstiles, and “tap out again like you’re on a journey”. 

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The Museumhouse Barnaart is another recommended stop, especially for architecture-lovers. At just 21 years old, Philip Barnaart commissioned Abraham van der Hart to design this remarkable reception house along the Haarlem canal. “The result is an almost ‘un-Dutch’ city palace with the best-preserved Empire-style interior in the Netherlands,” notes the museum brochure.

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A third gem is the Museum of the Mind, somewhat appropriately located in a former hospital where psychiatric patients had been treated since the 16^th century. The central theme of the content delves into what makes us tick.

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Dutch-American cousins

To understand Haarlem’s layered identity, it helps to look back to the 17^th century, when Dutch settlers crossed the Atlantic and established the colony of New Amsterdam on Manhattan Island. As they built new towns and neighbourhoods, using names and places of the past, it lent familiarity to a strange New World. Initially keeping its double-vowel, the spelling under English rule eventually morphed (as language does) into the simpler ‘Harlem’.

Today, the district is known for everything from jazz to basketball to civil rights history. But less is made or perhaps known of Harlem’s origin story, all starting with adventurous immigrants from a medieval port town some 6,000 km away. A fascinating thread in the story of transatlantic passage.

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From port to portraiture

Overlooking the main market square is the Great Church of St Bavo – a Roman Catholic missionary from Ghent who died in 659 AD – built in stages between 1370 and 1538. Following the Reformation, St Bavo’s was converted to a Protestant church. Visitors today marvel at the church organ completed in 1738 by Christian Müller. It’s 5,000 gleaming silver and bronze pipes that cover almost the whole west wall. Mozart famously played the organ in 1766, aged just ten at the time. Handel also travelled to Haarlem twice (1740 and 1750) to take advantage of the organ’s vast range (68 registers) and sublime acoustics.

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Annexed to the church is De Vishal (Fish Hall), which houses temporary exhibitions and events. Fanning out from the main square, you find a series of compact laneways with terraced cottages, upmarket shops, cosy cafés, and the museum district. 

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The Frans Hals Museum provides a tranquil setting to appreciate the Dutch artist’s finest works – a unique window into the Golden Age of Haarlem and the Netherlands. His portraits capture their subjects with what experts have called “immediacy and naturalism”, radiating personality in an unusually modern way for that time and the conventions of the era.

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The scale of the Corrie ten Boom House favours intimate reflection, a living testimony of the Christian family who lived there during the Nazi occupation. The Ten Booms used their modest home to shelter hundreds of Jews and members of the resistance. Guided tours recount their sacrifices and the tragic consequences of their defiance – only Corrie Ten Boom survived. 

Between city and sea: cycling the high dunes

A short ride west of Haarlem, the urban landscape gives way to one of the Netherlands’ most striking coastal areas: the Zuid-Kennemerland National Park. This protected landscape of rolling hoge duinen (high dunes), sandy valleys, pine forest, and open meadows is home to roaming highland cattle, Konik horses (a compact, powerful Polish breed), and diverse bird species.

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Unavoidably, pockets of industry line the Spaarne river and canal system joining Haarlem and Amsterdam, but the route north along the coast is largely one of woodland and undulating sandscapes, punctuated by a fun cable-ferry crossing at Velsen, and historical sites like the Ruïne van Brederode. The remains of this 13^th-century castle, with its ivy-covered walls and weathered stone towers, offer a dramatic reminder of the area’s medieval past.

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As the dunes flatten and the salty air strengthens, Wijk aan Zee appears – a relaxed, unpretentious beach town with wide tidal beaches and low-key cafés. It’s an ideal endpoint for a ride that showcases the diversity of Haarlem’s surroundings. If you don’t fancy the return trip, an overnight stay at the recently-renovated Strandhotel Het Hoge Duin – straddling the dune with views of the North Sea to the West and the town below – offers a touch of all-season comfort and relaxation.

L’article Why the real Haarlem should stand up est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Described by city authorities as a “sea of lights and decorations” that lends the “streets and squares a magical air”, the Winterlights Festival (21 November 2025 – 4 January 2026) is a patchwork of Christmas markets and twinkling delights where Luxembourgish traditions are on full display.

For anyone who has ventured to a winter wonderland-themed installation in Belgium or the mothership of such folksy fanfare, in Germany, the sensory overload and sheer crush of people and stuff can be off-putting. This is where Luxembourg has managed so well, spreading the installations across the city in a clear understanding that cosiness still needs good logistics.

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Market stalls are tastefully decorated, and the goods are, for the most part, crafty and Christmassy in spirit – keeping commercial clutter to a minimum. Food services are clean and tastefully arranged. Adding to the warm cheer, the city has scattered outdoor wood-burning heaters around the markets, protected by a clever standing table guard and chimney arrangement. You can rest your Glühwein and Mettwurst on the wooden guardrails while warming your hands by the fire. Genius.

Grand history in a small package

Luxembourg may well have been hiding its Christmas lights under a bushel all this time. But there is more to it than its footnote reputation lets on. Founded in the 10^th Century when Count Siegfried acquired the rocky promontory known as the Bock, the city grew into one of Europe’s most formidable fortress towns.

Its strategic position between Germanic and Romance Europe shaped its culture, language, and architecture – a blend still visible today in the elegant upper city, the dramatic cliffs of the Pétrusse Valley, and the Unesco World Heritage-listed old quarters.

This crossroads identity also underpins its Christmas customs. While France lies just over the border, Luxembourg’s festive spirit is distinctly more Germanic: timber huts, hearty dishes, and mulled wine in steaming cauldrons. The country’s long adoption of Adventszeit traditions – markets, music, lantern walks and candlelit streets – means that Christmas here feels time-honoured rather than staged.

@villedeluxembourg The Winterlights are officially ON Luxembourg City is glowing and the festive season has begun. Join us as we switch on the magic! #winterlights #luxembourgcity ♬ Originalton – Luxembourg City

A city-wide glow

What surprises first-time visitors most is the calm. Step out of the central railway station and the city feels instantly more spacious and unhurried than many European capitals in December. The Winterlights Festival, spread across several districts, adds pockets of atmosphere without the pushiness. Glowing trees line Avenue de la Liberté, leading towards clusters of chalets where local craftspeople, bakers, and wine producers chat as readily as they serve.

The city’s layout, descending from the upper plateau to the lower valley, makes wandering a pleasure. The free panoramic lift, which glides some 70 metres, offers sweeping views of cliffs, bridges, and rivers before depositing you within walking distance of another miniature winter world. Free public transport throughout the capital means the main Winterlights centres (see list) are only a short ride or walk apart, allowing visitors to drift between them at leisure.

@my_luxembourg Do you already have your Winterlights Checklist? #christmasmarket #luxembourgcity #winterlights #xmas #christmasfeeling ♬ Originalton – Luxembourg City Tourist Office

Festive flavours, local flair

Luxembourg’s seasonal dishes are warm, rustic, and filling. Market stalls serve kniddelen, soft dumplings bathed in creamy bacon sauce, and gromperekichelcher, spiced potato cakes traditionally eaten at Christmas and sometimes paired with applesauce. These classics, alongside grilled sausages, roasted chestnuts, and toasted treats over open fires, give the markets a homely feel.

To drink, locals favour Crémant de Luxembourg, a crisp sparkling wine that pairs nicely with cold nights and cheerful music. Local beers and mulled wine are everywhere too, often flavoured with regional twists.

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Dispersed delights

One of Luxembourg’s greatest festive luxuries is space. Timber stalls decorated with hand-carved features can be admired without queuing or being ushered to move on. Families can perch at tables, move between markets, and linger by fire pits without much jostling. It is Christmas at Luxembourg speed.

The Grand Duchy’s reputation for being on the dull side is not only undeserved – it is baffling. Beyond the festive season, the city offers panoramic fortifications, museums such as the Mudam for Contemporary Art and the impressive National Museum of History and Art, palace-lined squares, riverside walking paths, and the storybook Grund quarter tucked between cliffs. In winter, these same landscapes form a romantic backdrop to the warm glow of Winterlights.

Luxembourg may be small, but at Christmas it punches far above its weight. Its pockets of festive cheer – calm, welcoming and gently illuminated – are an invitation to slow down and rediscover the season’s simple pleasures.

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Main Christmas-themed markets and points of interest

• Lëtzebuerger Chrëschtmaart (Place d’Armes)
• Wantermaart (Place de la Constitution)
• Niklosmaart (Place de Paris)
• Wanterpark and ice-skating rink (Kinnekswiss)
• Sapin Royal (Place ÉmileHamilius)
• Winterkids and Adventskalennerhaus giant slide and flying reindeer ride (Place Guillaume II) 

L’article Pockets of Christmas spirit permeate Luxembourg est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve, a popular snorkelling spot in Hawaii, saw a remarkable transformation during the pandemic shutdown. Normally attracting around a million visitors a year, the bay’s seven-month closure allowed nature to bounce back in surprising ways.

A new study from the Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology (HIMB), published in Nature Ocean Sustainability, reveals that the water became clearer, fish populations swelled, and endangered Hawaiian monk seals began appearing more often. Researchers describe the closure as a “natural experiment” exposing just how much everyday tourism pressures shape the bay’s ecosystem.

Scientists from HIMB’s Elizabeth Madin Lab collected data before, during, and after the shutdown. They tracked water quality, fish populations and behaviour, and monk seal sightings. The difference was immediate. Herbivorous species such as parrotfish more actively grazed algae, while overall fish density rose to healthier levels.

“These kinds of changes happened quickly,” explains lead author Dr Elizabeth Madin in a statement on the findings, “suggesting that everyday human presence can have a real and measurable impact on reef health.”

Anthropical impacts on biodiversity have become the subject of more intense scrutiny. Earlier this year, researchers from the University of Zurich’s Department of Evolutionary Biology and Environmental Studies published findings (Nature 641) about the global human impact on biodiversity.

“Critically, the direction and magnitude of biodiversity changes vary across pressures, organisms and scales at which they are studied,” note the authors, whose global analysis reveals the “general impact and key mediating factors of human pressures on biodiversity”, and offers a benchmark for conservation strategies.

Rapid rebound

When freed from human pressures, sensitive marine ecosystems can rebound, and much faster than expected, according to the Hawaiian team. For Hanauma Bay, the recovery underscores the importance of smarter management to balance tourism with conservation.

Their work also highlights a potential win-win for nature and the economy. Visitor caps and stricter controls could ease ecological strain while maintaining reasonable access. A 2022 survey by Reef-World Foundation suggests tourists are willing to pay more for sustainable offerings – protecting ecosystems while at the same time strengthening the industry that depends on them.

The forced closure, or “anthropause”, offered unique insights on how marine managers can achieve this delicate balancing act. If you give reefs a much-needed break, they can recover and even thrive, the researchers suggest. The big challenge now is finding ways to let visitors in without shutting nature out.

“Using the COVID-19 anthropause to better understand the impacts of human presence on reef systems can provide important clues to how these ecosystems, and the resources they provide for coastal inhabitants, will conceivably change over time as human presence changes,” the research paper concludes.

L’article Tourists out, coral in: reefs recover at speed est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

Remnants of ice and snow on the ground mean you have to watch your footing. Then something catches your eye. Something extraordinary. It wasn’t there yesterday. But what is it? It looks so real. You scan around, wondering if it’s a prank. You bend down for a closer look… and you’re instantly swept into a secret world of tiny art.

Though fictional, this scenario could well have played out on a dark December morning in 2016 when a mysterious miniature house appeared like a pop-up restaurant for mice on a busy street in Malmö, Sweden.

Built with scaled precision, the installation conjured up visions of nissar going about their own quotidian lives, worrying how the cost of living will affect business, rushing to the chemist before it closes, buying Italian takeaway for dinner, and getting in some last-minute Christmas shopping.

No one knew who was behind the stunt or why. Speculation took hold. Confusion reigned. The only clue was a Banksy-like stencil of a mouse-eared V for Vendetta character captioned ‘Anonymouse’.

Guerilla art can be a powerful medium for activism to raise awareness about issues. But the Anonymouse collective offered no apparent political and social message, nor an obvious commercial agenda. Could it simply be art for the people, a kind gesture? We would have to wait nearly a decade for an answer to that question.

Anonymity to a point

The Anonymouse crew – later nicknamed ‘Banksy Mouse’ – were not ready to reveal themselves. For years, they conjured up playful alternative worlds like the Italian eatery ‘Il Topolino’, the insect-inspired pharmacy ‘Apoteket Cikadan’, and the nut shop ‘Noix de Vie’, which popped up in southern Sweden and other countries.

Then, as mysteriously as it started, the V-Mouse team decided to pull back the curtain. It was announced in June that these finely crafted pieces were the work of two Swedish artists, Elin Westerholm and Lupus Nensén.

The pair had met while working as designers on the British version of the Wallander TV series.

At first, they said they wanted to do something creative and fresh, but with a whimsical note to brighten up the dark Scandinavian winter. People loved the idea. Somehow, it struck a chord.

When announcing they would be retiring the Anonymouse series, Nensén attributed their successful partnership to their different but complementary aesthetics, merging his gothic stylings with Westerholm’s Swedish folkhem (people’s home) sensibilities. Somehow, they managed to “make it all look as though it belongs to the same world”, he concluded.

And while that world may seem secretive or even out of step in the prosaic of daily life, the grown-up version of every child is happy to adjust their eyeline for a glimpse of simpler, perhaps more magical times.

Mystery revealed, a summer exhibit

Several original Anonymouse mini-houses were featured in a Summer Exhibit at Lund’s Skissernas Museum – dedicated to the artistic process and public art – from 27 June to 24 August 2025. Young and old are encouraged to find objects like safety pins and a paper clip immersed in the miniature displays (all at ground level, of course!).

L’article A ‘tiny art’ sensation that cherished being out of step with daily rituals est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

The sea is an enduring feature of Dieppe’s story and personality today. With its vast tidal range (8-9m), striking weather-worn cliffs and pebbly beach, the sea defines the town’s laid-back rhythm, insinuating itself into the old port and harbour life.

Still busy with leisure boats, cargo haulers and a smattering of fishing vessels, the harbour also supports up to 17 weekly ferries making the 150-km crossing to Newhaven on the English coast.

These modern links mirror the centuries-old bond between Dieppe and Britain – a connection infused by conflict during the Hundred Years’ War and later neutralised through tourism, trade, and cultural exchange.

The town was once a popular retreat for British holidaymakers and artists. Vestiges of that era remain in its Victorian architecture and lingering sense of Anglo-Norman familiarity. “Well-known literary and artistic figures such as Arthur Symons, Oscar Wilde, Aubrey Beardsley and Max Beerbohm would spend the season in Dieppe, keen to pick up on the avant-garde trends in France,” according to the Churchill Archives Centre (CAC) which documents the life and times of the former British Prime Minister.

The railway from Paris to Dieppe, completed in 1848, was built by a British company using its own workers – many of them deciding to settle in the area afterwards. The English popularised sea-bathing and golf in the region. “Finishing schools also sprang up in the town: young English ladies were sent to finish their education and polish their manners before coming out into society,” notes Sharon Mather, a Churchill College By-Fellow.

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Port in a storm

The port itself is unique in its construction. Its infrastructure, rebuilt in the 19^th century after the 1694 Anglo-Dutch bombardment, blends functional steel swing bridges like the Pont Colbert (opened in 1899) with brick warehouses and piers that hint at a former industrial grandeur. The docks still handle catches from the Channel, with Dieppe’s scallops among the most prized in France.

Presiding over the town from a bluff to the west is the Dieppe Castle. Founded by the English, reinforced by the French, and later rebuilt in the 15^th century, the castle was fortified using a distinctive blend of flint and brick. It survived multiple sieges and attacks and now houses the Chateau Musée de Dieppe. The collection inside includes regional artworks, maritime charts, intricately carved ivory, and much more.

From the ramparts, the view stretches across the beach, the town’s vast esplanade, and out to the ever-changing sea. Follow the signs to the ‘Sitting panoramic’, an art installation by Arnaud Maurer. Designed as a life-sized photo-frame sculpture, visitors are invited to sit on a rotating stool to capture the views in full cinemascope-style.      

Remember the fallen

Dieppe’s battle stories continue into the 20^th century. On 19 August 1942, over 6,000 Allied troops (mainly Canadian) launched a raid on the beaches as part of Operation Jubilee. The assault was a catastrophe: around 3,600 were either killed, wounded or captured, while German casualties totalled fewer than 600.

The failed amphibius attack taught the Allies valuable lessons about the strength of German defences, setting the planned D-Day invasion of northern France back by years. “Artificial harbours were declared crucial, tanks were adapted specifically for beaches, a new integrated tactical air force strengthened ground support, and capturing a major port at the outset was no longer seen as a priority,” notes the Dieppe Raid Wiki.

Today, Dieppe remembers this and other wartime events with deep respect. An elegant memorial garden sits in the shadow of the Castle, and a monument to Canada’s ‘Essex Scottish Regiment’ is in pride of place further along the esplanade.

Housed in a former theatre just a stone’s throw from the beach and castle is the heartfelt Le Mémorial du 19 août 1942, a museum documenting the failed operation (opening hours can be spasmodic, so check before). A cenotaph by Don Gould in Dieppe centre bears a quiet inscription and the distinctive maple leaf, a symbol of the enduring bond between Canada and this French port. Just south of town, a Canadian war cemetery marks the final resting place of many who fell. Read more about the build-up and fatal consequences of the raid on The Maritime Explorer blog.

Thousand-year potential

Around the old port, comparisons with Honfleur are easy to make, though Dieppe has a more lived-in, perhaps wizened quality about it. Locals as well as tourists enjoy the eateries and bars lining the steep harbour walls. A number vacant or underused properties lie within walking distance of both the port and the beach, hinting at a town in transition.

Judging by real-estate prices, the phrase ‘potential investment opportunity’ comes to mind.  Frequent rail services serve passengers travelling to Paris (via Rouen), taking around 2.5 hours. Driving the 170 km to the French capital takes a similar time, depending on traffic. The 340 km to Brussels takes about 4 hours by road and 5-6 hours by train, again passing through Paris and Rouen. 

Today, Dieppe stands at a crossroads. Steeped in maritime tradition, scarred by war, linked by sea to its ‘English’ brethren and full of unassuming resilience, this seaside town offers more than a glimpse into the Anglo-French past – it holds the promise of renewal.

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Dieppe’s English story and the castle that guards it

Dieppe Castle is living testimony to the town’s ‘English story’. The first castle on the current site was built in 1188 by King Henry II of England, first of the Angevin kings, and his Crusading son Richard the Lionheart. It was positioned strategically to defend the Channel and the town. In 1195, it was badly damaged by King Philip II of France. It was rebuilt to withstand attacks from the sea and further fortified during the 14^th century to withstand the growing threat from the Flemish and English. Charles Desmarets, a French knight, liberated the town from English hands and, between 1443 and 1455, built a new fortress: a rectangular enclosure with four towers, a gate tower, and a drawbridge – all connected to the city walls.

The castle was to feature prominently in the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453) – a drawn-out conflict cum family feud between England and France over claims to the French crown. Dieppe’s ‘liberation’ midway through the 15^th century allowed the French to strengthen their coastal defences. The town’s experience during the war reflects its enduring role as a gateway between France and England.

In the 16^th century, the castle was reinforced to counter heavier artillery. A barbican or outer defence was added to the southeast facade, a new tower built below the main walls, and the enclosure extended to incorporate the square bell tower of Saint-Rémy church.

From the 17^th century onward, the castle gradually lost its military role, serving as barracks and later as the governor’s residence. Windows were added, and the towers were topped with pitched roofs. British troops occupied it in World War I; German forces took over from 1940 to 1944.

Today, Dieppe Castle is a museum showcasing regional art and the city’s cultural heritage, including the composer Camille Saint-Saëns (1835-1921), who spent his later years living and working in the town. A visit is worth it for the finely worked ivory figurines and the views alone.

What to do in Dieppe

1. Dieppe Castle (Château-Musée de Dieppe): With sweeping westward views, the château keeps a watchful eye over land and sea.
2. The Seafront and Esplanade: Dieppe’s vast seafront lawns – described as the largest in Europe – lie just behind the wide pebble beach. Ideal for family picnics, but also for casual sports and tournaments.
3. Saint-Jacques Church: Gothic pilgrimage church with a delicate rose window and 15^th-century tower, dedicated to St James of Compostela.
4. Dieppe Port: Eclectic and multi-personality harbour serving a marina, commercial port, and ferry terminal – restaurants and bars lining the west side beat as the town’s vibrant heart.
5. 1942 Memorial Museum: Housed in a former theatre, this museum tells the story of the ill-fated Allied Dieppe Raid and its role in shaping the D-Day strategy.
6. Les Tourelles Gate: The last remaining medieval town gate, once used as a prison during the French Revolution, now privately owned.
7. Café des Tribunaux and Puits Salé: This central square recalls Dieppe’s literary and artistic past – Wilde and Maupassant drank here.
8. Dieppe Golf Club: Founded in the 19^th century, this clifftop course on the way to Pourville offers spectacular Channel views and golfing heritage.

L’article Dieppe, worthy of its own gritty BBC drama est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

You hear them on trains, in pubs, at popular tourist attractions just about everywhere. Cheery 20-somethings from Down Under doing their famous global ‘walkabout’. Historically, Aussies and Kiwis have banded together on this grand tour, so it’s not surprising the world sometimes (con)fuses them.

But why are they hard to distinguish? Geographical proximity is not enough. You have to add some historical and cultural heritage for a truer picture; their shared British colonial ties and, by default, adoption of the English language, cricket, rugby, and mulish traits typical of many island nations. 

Both countries are still members of the Commonwealth, retain an English regent on their currency, and continue with some arcane legal ties despite domestic pressure to sever them once and for all, including a failed Australian Republic Referendum in 1999.

Because they both lie in the southern hemisphere (the Antipodes), the rest of the world thinks they are basically neighbours. After more than 25 hours of flight-hopping to Australia, the last 2000km stretch over the Tasman Sea to New Zealand seems negligible in comparison.

Both countries feature unique fauna – kangaroos, kiwis, koalas, etc. – as part of their sporting, cultural and political identity. And to the untuned ear, Australians and New Zealanders also sound very similar. 

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1. Identity forged in wartime heroism

Anthony Smith’s 1991 book ‘National Identity’ explores the regional, ethnic and linguistic characteristics that shape identity. A nation needs “a glorious past, a golden age of saints and heroes, to give meaning to its promise of restoration and dignity”, he posits.

But where does that leave relatively young nations like Australia and New Zealand? Indigenous stories, songs and rituals like Aboriginal Dreaming (Jukurrpa origin) and Māori Whakapapa are important to Australian and New Zealand identity, respectively, today. The same can’t be said when these new nation states (see Paul Wilkinson’s definition) started to emerge at the turn of the 19^th century.  

According to Jed Donoghue and Bruce Tranter in ‘The Anzac Myth and Australian Identity’, “The Anzacs are the closest Australia comes to approximating the ‘saints and heroes’ of a golden age.” As a “relatively young settler society” stories of brave Antipodeans fighting together – or separately under British command – in the trenches of World War I (WWI) have become a surrogate historical reference. 

The term ‘Anzac’ was reportedly first used in army despatches in 1915 as shorthand for the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, notes the Anzac Portal in its account of how the legend was born. “The two corps were part of the British-commanded Mediterranean Expeditionary Force, which fought against the Ottoman Empire at Gallipoli in 1915.” 

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Some experts explain the Anzac mashup as military expediency; others suggest it came down to geography, cultural similarities, and the timing of their entry into the war. Whatever the reason, thanks to the sheer scale of the conflict and losses incurred, WWI became a nation-shaping experience for both nascent countries.

Out of a population of just over 1 million in 1914, around 120,000 New Zealanders enlisted in WWI, 16,000 died and 41,000 were wounded. Australia’s total population at the time was about 4 million, and of the 417,000 who enlisted 60,000 were killed and 156,000 wounded, gassed or taken prisoner.

2. Natural allies with common enemies

Competition – bordering on sibling rivalry – between neighbouring countries is not unusal. In this case it tends to come out in cricket and rugby union, with the ‘All Blacks’ customarily overcoming an underdone Wallabies. Yet while the rivalry is real during international competitions, fevered passions quickly transfer to a mutual enemy when a winner is decided. And there is no greater foe than England! 

When young Aussies and Kiwis are globetrotting they often base themselves in ‘Kangaroo Valley’ (Earls Court) and other locations around London. They band together out of a sense kinship so far from home, explains Simon, an expat New Zealander who recalls long sessions with Aussies in the Walkabout Pub (circa 1990s) located in Shepherds Bush. 

Despite the typical “barbs and wind ups” between Aussies and Kiwis, he says they tend to stand side by side against the “Poms” in rugby. “Losing at Twickenham against the English is a Kiwi’s worst nightmare!” Now living in Brussels, Simon still seeks the company of Australians, and regularly visits family living in Sydney.  

“Australia and New Zealand are natural allies with a strong trans-Tasman sense of family,” confirms the Australian Government’s briefing on New Zealand. “Migration, trade and defence ties, keen competition on the sporting field, and strong people-to-people links have helped shape a close and co-operative relationship.” 

Australia and New Zealand are more than friends.

We are whānau – family.

And from July 1, there will be a direct pathway for eligible New Zealand citizens to Australian Citizenship. pic.twitter.com/eBLZE2rsxC

— Anthony Albanese (@AlboMP) April 22, 2023

Citizens from either country can travel, live and work in the other thanks to the Trans-Tasman Travel Arrangement and the Australia-New Zealand Social Security Agreement. An estimated 670,000 Kiwis – around 15% of the country’s total population – live in Australia, with concentrations in three eastern states (Queensland, New South Wales, and Victoria) effectively facing New Zealand.

Whereas only around 75,000 of Australia’s 26.6 million population call New Zealand home. This imbalance is reflected in the vastly different scale of the two countries and translates directly into more commercial, cultural, and career opportunities for New Zealanders relocating to their larger neighbour.

Australia is about 19 times bigger than New Zealand and has five cities with more than 1.4 million inhabitants, two of which (Sydney and Melbourne) are upwards of 5.2 million. Landlocked Canberra, the capital, has nearly half a million. New Zealand, meanwhile, has Auckland with over 1.5 million, a handful of medium-sized cities like Christchurch with 403,000, and the capital Wellington with 214,000.

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3. Soapy tensions

Tensions do flair up in trade and sensitive policy areas – New Zealand is strictly anti-nuclear, Australia less so – and over highly charged events such as Covid lockdowns, and reactions to an Australian gunman’s 2019 murder spree in Christchurch.    

The issue of language and cultural appropriation are other potential flashpoints. Fans of Australian soaps like Neighbours and Home and Away or New Zealand comedy Flight of the Conchords think they can discern one accent from the other, only to fall foul when they guess wrongly.  

pic.twitter.com/Xwhp9p26rn

— Out of Context Flight of the Conchords (@OCConchords) August 10, 2020

For speculators, the advice is to say ‘New Zealand’ first because Australians tend to be less offended by being mistaken for their smaller – usually more modest and favourably regarded – neighbour. A similar dynamic exists between Canada and America. 

Both countries drift up in tone at the end of a sentence – almost forming a permanent question. But you can hear some clear differences in the pronunciation of vowels. Australians tend to flatten the ‘a’ and ‘i’ in words like ‘car’ or ‘trip’, while New Zealanders pinch them.  

“Growing up as a young bloke in northwest Australia, the differences I saw were really superficial,” explains Lorne, an expat in Belgium. “The accent was the obvious thing; something to rib each other about.” 

But most Australians of a certain (pre-internet) generation had limited exposure to New Zealanders unless living in cities where they congregate. He does remember things like the Footrot Flats comic strip, Dave Dobbyn’s Slice of Heaven and I Got You by Split Enz. “Sport stood out too, with the Kiwis being dead-set rugby fans while West Australians are more fanatical about Aussie Rules.” 

For Lorne, some political differences became more visible in native title and social issues from the 1980s onwards: “New Zealand established a treaty with its First Nation people quite early, something that Australia was (and still is) struggling with.” 

Usually flying under the radar compared to Australia, the Kiwis were thrust into the limelight on nuclear and environmental issues, he recalls: “There was a ban on nuclear warships entering the country, which annoyed the Americans, and New Zealand responded strongly to a French attack on the Greenpeace boat ‘Rainbow Warrior’.” 

That took political courage and “big thinking” standing up to larger countries, he believes, lamenting that Australia usually isn’t as daring: “Looking at it from abroad, its Indigenous Voice vote in 2023 feels like a lost opportunity!”

4. Ruffling feathers beyond the British bubble

It’s hard to get a sense of how Aussies and Kiwis are viewed outside the English-speaking colonial bubble. If a European is asked about such parochial hair-splitting they are likely to demur, feeling ill-equipped to offer opinions on the differences between two countries on the other side of the planet. Finding candidates who are familiar with both countries is even harder. But Swedish journalist Henrik, who recently returned to Europe from a working holiday Down Under, was up to the challenge. 

New Zealand’s striking nature, laidback people and serene towns really stood out: “It feels like stepping back in time, maybe to a Nordic 1950s. For a European, it’s fascinating to board a domestic flight without any security checks; a sense of innocence characterises the entire country.”

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Everyone from immigrant guest workers to cruise passengers speaks warmly of Kiwi hospitality, but at the same time, Henrik is surprised by the lack of spark in the cities: “Auckland must be the world’s largest small town!”

A stark contrast to what he discovered on the next leg of the tour over the Tasman. “What a relief it is – in that sense – when you land in Sydney, the world’s smallest and most accessible metropolis.” He marvelled at the architecture, restaurants, and vibrant people: “It’s sex, drugs, and rock n’ roll without the grittiness we see in European cities like Berlin, Stockholm, or Brussels – at least not on the tourist-friendly surface I scratched.”

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5. Lessons in equanimity

‘Which one are you… Australian right?’ Silence. 

Of course, no international incident will ever be triggered if you happen to mix up these (rather) similar and increasingly aligned nations tucked into the southern hemisphere. But for regions facing tensions over trade, territory, faith and all manner of beefs – real or inveigled – perhaps some lessons can be extracted on how they reached this state of equanimity.

L’article Can you really spot the difference between Kiwis and Aussies? est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

By the 13^th century, thanks to its lucrative clothmaking industry Picardy and Flanders (now Belgium) “formed part of an extremely wealthy industrial and commercial region”, wrote the late Allan E. Knight, a mediaeval historian, in the Chaucer Review (1980). But this vast wealth began to fuel “mutual distrust” between regional power figures whose pursuit of self-governance led to competition and fragmentation.

“The 14^th century […] saw the beginning of a long and steady decline in the economic prosperity of the region,” added Knight. For centuries, the province’s fortunes waxed and waned as mining delivered new-found wealth and industrial technologies unlocked fresh opportunities. But upheavals were never far away. Among them, the Napoleonic Wars took a significant toll on Picardy, culminating in the northeast campaigns of 1814. 

Turmoil then returned to the Somme and neighbouring Fields of Flanders a century later, both regions now synonymous with the horrors of WWI trench warfare. Textile factories closed. Mines and industries closed or plundered for the German war effort. Populations fled or struggled under occupation. Working-age Frenchmen died in their millions. This pattern was repeated 20 years later as northern France yet again became a theatre for duelling powers during WWII. Perhaps it never fully recovered, made worse by later shifts away from heavy industry and underinvestment in new economy trends.

Once coveted and strategically vital to kings, dukes and bishops, Picardy (renamed Hauts-de-France*) is today the poorest and most polluted province in mainland France, according to SIGLES, which charts the links between socio-economics, health, and the environment.

1. An enigma flying under the radar

Despite all, the vestiges of mediaeval Picardy proudly defy the stereotypes of northern France. Leading that defiance is Laon whose walled upper town overlooks the plains of Champagne to the southeast and the Somme River basin to the northwest. It is an enigmatic place.

Religious scholars and historians know it very well. But your average city-tripper will struggle to place let alone pronounce it (the ‘a’ is basically silent). But appreciate it they should if only for the fact that so much of Europe’s origins story is packed into Laon and its surrounds.

“It’s true that our town attracts many lovers of its architectural and religious heritage, but that’s not all,” contends Loïc Pailler, Laon Tourism’s spokesperson. “We also attract a very large family clientele (French, as well as Belgian, Dutch, and British), particularly through the Center Parcs du Domaine de l’Ailette, located 15 km south of Laon.”

2. Barbarians to Burgundians … whatever

The walled city rising about 100m above Picardy’s otherwise flat plains was built on a sedimentary base of clay, sand- and limestone in the second part of the 12^th century. These features have given Laon and its predecessors strategic importance for millennia. 

Records show Gallic and Roman settlements in the area. In the times of Julius Caesar, according to Wiki, the Remis who occupied lands around present-day Reims fought northern tribes confederated by the Belgae for strategic control of this rare pocket of high ground.

The locals today (the Laonnois) don’t seem overly bothered whether Frankish Kings or Burgundian Dukes reigned or not in times past. They go about their business, run their shops, grab a beer (northern French prefer it to wine) after work without giving much thought to this cultural cache. 

Arguably, that’s reflected in the state of some residential buildings begging for a lick of paint and some love. A quixotic mix of old-world grandeur and well-worn charm radiates from the Laon Cathedral of Notre-Dame, one of seven such feats of Gothic architecture in Picardy.

Next door, the Tourist Office is as low-key as the locals. Some books and brochures on tables and a few cabinets with local delicacies. But this sparing style just seems to fit Laon’s vibe. People are definitely friendlier than those you encounter in French cities where tourists overrun the place. 

Even the police, when asked about parking downtown overnight, tell you not to worry if you have a blue disc in the car, parting with a “please enjoy your stay” and no hint of sarcasm whatsoever.

Bar staff ask where you come from when your French falters, lending a hand with their own attempts at English. It’s as though the inhabitants of Hauts-de-France didn’t get the memo that they’re supposed to be, well, haughty.

3. The age of cathedrals

“From the 12^th century what became known as Gothic style spread from Picardy across the continent,” notes Arnaud Timbert, a professor at University of Picardy Jules-Verne in the booklet ‘The Seven Cathedrals of Picardy’. They are all clustered within a 60km radius of each other, dominating the skylines of Noyon, Senlis, Laon, Saint Quentin, Soissons, Amiens, and Beauvais.

These “priceless assets” served as a “model for western monumental architecture”, according to the booklet, melding the spiritual and artistic with innovative building methods. True statement pieces marking an era of growth, prosperity, and profound social change. 

Technical advances were improving land and river navigation, opening up markets from Picardy to the Flemish ports, and from there to the Mediterranean. Ideas also flowed along these trade routes. Bernard de Chartres, a 12^th century French philosopher, captured the spirit of artistic light (“Art Français”), power and presence symbolised by the cathedrals: “We are dwarfs perched on the shoulders of giants. We thus see more and further than they do, not because our sight is sharper or our height greater, but because they lift us up and raise us to their full gigantic height.”

Vaults grew higher with each new building project, and the flying buttresses and ribbed designs supporting them grew more sophisticated. Just as the title ‘World’s Tallest Building’ captivates us today, the cities of Picardy entered a religious-tax-fuelled battle for supremacy of the skies with Noyon Cathedral staking its territory in 1145 with a then impressive 22m vault. That was overtaken by Senlis Cathedral whose 24m vault and 78m spire were completed in 1151. A year later, Laon Cathedral went one further, literally, completing in 1152 its 25m vault with vibrant light-filled stained rose windows at each end. 

A quarter of a century passed before the final stone on the next masterpiece in Soissons was laid, allowing time for engineering advances to push cathedral designs into unchartered territory (the vault tipped 31m). Saint Quentin then pushed further in 1195 with its 34m vault, Amiens’ cathedral leapt ahead in 1220 (42.5m), and Beauvais rounded out the ‘big seven’ with its towering 48m vaulted ceilings. These structures were built without modern (safe) scaffolding, cranes, and hydraulic equipment. Staggering achievements.

4. Reasons to remember

During the rise of the Franks and the Carolingian Era (Charlemagne and his descendants) Laon was one of two or three major cities in the kingdom, which Pailler believes led to the “rather hasty description” of it as the “former capital of France”. Laon today, he concedes, is a more modest town of around 25,000 people whose location remains a keystone of its existence, “ideally situated in a triangle between Paris, Lille and Reims”.

In 2023, 656,000 overnight stays were recorded by Laon’s various accommodation providers. According to Pailler, the main attractions are the cathedral, underground passages, ramparts, museums, and the Vauclair Forest and Abbey to the south, where “green tourism” is a major trend for people wanting to “relax in wide open spaces”.

Remembrance tourism is also clearly a major regional attraction, he adds, thanks to Laon’s proximity to all the sites along the Chemin des Dames, including the Caverne du Dragon, an underground museum dedicated to the lives of WWI soldiers.

Laon set up its own subterranean experience, called ‘Secrets Under the City’, which looks at the history of the underground passages and their role as a natural military fortress over the centuries. “It works very well,” he says, “many of our tourists – French among them – marvel at the fact that the town is home to so many monuments and has retained its mediaeval character, despite its proximity to the front line during the 1914-18 War.”

The spokesperson adds that visitors should mark their calendars for the reopening of the Templar Chapel (Chapelle des Templiers) in 2025, located in the courtyard of the Laon Museum of Art and Archaeology, which he explains has been closed for restoration.

5. Other treats, near and far

Ask the Tourist Office for a free map of “merveilles” in French and English. Up to 15 noteworthy sites are listed, with corresponding ‘monument’ plaques and multi-lingual explanations. These include old-town gates (Ardon and Soissons), three cloisters – Abbey of Saint Vincent, Abbey of Saint Martin, and dual-order Abbey of Saint Marie and Saint Jean – and many other historical and natural features. 

Photographers can marvel at the visual and artistic displays on walls lining cobbled alleyways, and posted all over town. The small walking street, Rue Châtelaine, leading up to the Cathedral has a delightful shock of colour in the form of a parasol canopy, perhaps doubling as rain-proofing in the long wintry months.  

For foodies, regional specialties include the pungent maroilles cheese and ficelle Picardy, a rolled and stuffed savoury crêpe with ham, shallots, cream, and grilled cheese. 

The upper and lower town are connected by a winding road and a neat cable-car/funicular setup called the ‘Poma 2000’. On the doorsteps of the old city, passing through the Porte Chenizelles, is the Cuve Saint-Vincent – a veritable “forest in the midst of the city” according to the Tourist Office.

Outside the city, ramblers have options in the Saint-Gobain and Samoussy state forests, as well as the Voie Vertereserve weaving through pastures, wetlands, and woods. Other notable spots around Laon include the Basilique de Liesse and Églises Art Deco, and a little further north is the Museum of Barbarian Time.

Continuing north, you reach the town of Guise, another mediaeval jewel in northern France made famous by the eponymous noble family who played a role in the Reformation, Wars of Religion, and Scottish Reformation, wielding significant political influence across the continent and British Isles. Their power peaked in the 16^th century with Mary of Guise as regent of Scotland on behalf of her underage daughter Mary Stuart. Meanwhile, her brothers François, Second Duke of Guise, and Charles, Cardinal de Lorraine, gained vast wealth and stature during the reign of Francis II.        

“As well as the Familistère de Guise museum, why not combine it with the Château Fort de Guise, which recently opened access to its ‘hidden bastion’,” suggests Laon’s tourism office.   

Amiens and Laon are perfect bases to explore the whole province, from the hinterlands to the North Sea coast.

* The former province of Picardy runs in an easterly direction from the North Sea, with Pas-de-Calais and Ile-de-France to its north and south respectively, and Normandy and Champagne-Ardenne on its western and eastern flanks, taking in several French departments, including Sommes, Senlis, Oise and Aisne. Meanwhile, Artois (Arras area) separates Picardy from present-day French Flanders. After a territorial reform a decade ago, the province was renamed Hauts-de-France.

L’article Gothic gems guarding northern France’s heritage est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

More surprises await inside as you discover Sweden’s quiet determination to remain ‘unaligned’ in an unpredictable world. How military and defence spending scaled back drastically as the Soviet Perestroika offered a tantalising glimpse of a more open and even trusting world, and how Sweden turned its considerable resources and good intentions into global peacekeeping. And then everything changed… 

Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February 2022 jolted European geopolitics out of its slumber, leading to an unexpected outcome: Sweden and Finland swiftly applying to join the NATO security alliance. A politically charged and painstaking accession process awaited the Swedes – with the main obstacle being current member Turkey’s need to extract a pound of geopolitical flesh before signing off. While Finland enjoyed a relatively smooth transition.   

It’s too soon to say how historians will write up this new chapter in European security alliances. But for the curators of the Brigade Museum it is an existential question; how to keep the exhibits up to date with minds, military moves and maps in flux. 

End of a peace-toting epoque

A new reality has dawned in Sweden after decades of “flexibility and balance” aimed at “keeping a distance between … the two political blocs,” notes the Warsaw Institute, adding however that Stockholm’s actions were not always fully recognised as being “in line with ‘neutral status’.”   

According to Wolfgang Michel, a volunteer guide at Brigade Museum, the issues facing Swedes today range from having to ramp up defence spending and reinforce military service to reorganising international logistics and cooperation. And of course how all this will impact daily life in Sweden is a big unknown, he adds.

Asked whether such uncertainty and imminent costs play on the population’s support for such a huge move, giving up its proudly-held ‘neutrality’, the former UN peacekeeper, policeman and miner is edifying: “I wouldn’t say [Sweden was] neutral as such; it was alliance-free!” 

Regardless, he continues, “Russia’s aggression has been a wake-up call for everyone.” And that goes especially for northern countries who have a lot of history with Russia. 

Here, he is referring to several Cold War events, including some blatant Russian interference in everyday matters, culminating in 1981 with the grounding of a Soviet nuclear submarine off the Swedish coast. “[That] incident started an 11-day long diplomatic tug of war between Sweden and the Soviet Union,” reported Radio Sweden at the time.

The government line on this prickly issue is quite consistent with Michel’s view: “Sweden has not been involved in a war since 1814 and has ‘pursued a policy of non-alignment in peacetime and neutrality in wartime’, basing its security on a strong national defence.” 

For Swedes, wariness of Russia gives way to outright hostility if you go far enough back. Alone or as part of its once powerful military empire, including Finland and other countries, Sweden has fought numerous wars against Russian-aligned forces. The last of which, during the Napoleonic Wars, ended in what has been described in Sweden as a “traumatic loss of Finland” in 1809 – it remained annexed to Russia until gaining independence in 1917.

The Finns meanwhile need no reminding of the threat posed by Russia following the latter’s invasion in November 1939. Dubbed the Winter War, the Finns valiantly defended their territory for several months against a superior force. 

Testing times

But it was during the Second World War that Sweden’s non-alignment or neutrality would be heavily tested and even questioned in some circles. 

“Sweden stands out as an intriguing case in which an extensive military heritage needs to be reconciled with the prominent national narratives of peace and neutrality,” notes E-International Relations in a thought piece on Swedish Cold War heritage and resurgent interest in the nation’s military history.

Michel says it was a particularly tricky period to maintain its distance after 1942 because, as the Museum points out, Swedish industry and especially steel manufacturing played a significant role for both sides. 

German troops were also frequently transiting through Karlstad towards occupied Norway some 230km further west. But the key issue, according to Michel, is that the government tried not to favour either side, especially during the critical periods of the war. But evidence in the US National Archives suggests this ‘balance’ may have depended on war-time momentum shifts.

Michel points out that many individuals (up to 20,000, according to reports) chose to fight alongside Finns trying to rebuff the Russians in 1939, and later against the Germans. Swedes also set aside their country’s neutrality by helping stranded allied soldiers and people fleeing Nazi persecution.     

Chief among them was the architect and businessman Raoul Wallenberg who while serving as a diplomat in Hungary was able to issue “protective passports” and set up safe houses that saved thousands of Jews. 

Michel sees Sweden’s move to join NATO as understandable and even inevitable, given the circumstances surrounding Russia’s full-blown invasion of Ukraine. He believes his country’s reinstatement of “conscription”, which was dropped in 2010, is a natural consequence of these developments, too.

BREAKING –#Sweden is now a member of Nato – 200 years of military nonalignment has ended pic.twitter.com/0R5UOHRuCV

— Nordic News (@Nordic_News) March 7, 2024

Since 2018, men and women are now considered part of “Sweden’s total defence,” which according to Krisinformation, can take the form of active military service, civilian service (e.g. emergency response or armed forces), or general compulsory national service, which only applies in the event of a “heightened state of alert”.

While peaceful sentiments can be heard in day-to-day exchanges with Swedes – perhaps an expression of their natural reserve and respect for lagom (‘not too much, not too little … the right amount’) – more piqued talk of security threats and the prospects of a Hot War in Europe can be heard in political and NATO circles.

Sweden’s accession to the alliance is considered a political message to Russia as much as anything else, that its aggression has not paid off. “Analysts and commentators have been quick to highlight Sweden’s robust arms industry and the geographic benefits of an allied Sweden,” notes Foreign Policy, citing Politico and The Washington Post. 

Historic day at Nato HQ. The Swedish flag was raised as Sweden is now one of 32 allies defending freedom, democracy and our way of life. A day for celebration but also continuing the hard work to integrate Sweden into Nato. (1/2) pic.twitter.com/sfe3bxiGPi

— Pål Jonson (@PlJonson) March 11, 2024

Sweden’s military budget has doubled since 2020, and spending has increased by 34% from 2023 to 2024, reaching 2.2% of GDP (.2% above NATO’s minimum requirement). December last year, Sweden and the United States also signed an agreement establishing conditions under which US troops can operate in Sweden.

Perhaps more telling of Sweden’s rapid shift from purveyors of peace to warriors of yesteryear is captured in comments earlier this year by Civil Defence Minister Carl-Oskar Bohlin that “there could be war in Sweden”. 

His Defence Chief Micael Bydén said Swedes need to mentally and physically prepare for it, including bolstering defence in the Baltic region and especially around the island of Gotland, strategically located between Russia’s exclave Kaliningrad and the Swedish mainland.

For the Brigade Museum, such talk is grist to the mill as it looks for new ways to tell Sweden’s Cold War story in what is an increasingly hot geopolitical milieu, from exhibits on the history and changing role of women in war to the modern face of aid stations and triage. It’s a space well worth watching.

L’article Disarming look at Swedish militarism: a hot, cold then perhaps hot again journey est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.

My four-night journey took in the likes of Örebro, with its imperious castle, skirted the Norwegian border where fjällen (‘the fells’ mountain range) taper off to the North Sea, and plied the lake’s edge and hinterlands for some cultural and natural excursions. The trip was capped off by a sneaky stop in Trollhättan – an emerging film hotspot dubbed ‘Trollywood’ by the usual wags.    

Dating back to the 15^th century, the township of Trollhättan grew out of its strategic position at the mouth of the Göta River linking Lake Vänern to the port of Gothenburg, Sweden’s second-largest city 75km south. Literally translated as “troll’s bonnet”, the name Trollhättan pays homage to Scandinavian folklore. Some believe it stems from the hat or hood-like formation of the waterfall tumbling through the town centre; more mystical types will say the gorges of the Göta Älv were carved by giant trolls, forming “islands in the river” or “hättor”. 

However you look at it, the resulting geology combined with engineering feats over the centuries leave a powerful impression – with a series of cascades and spillways weaving through the centre. Visitors can see first-hand the locks in action as vessels make their way along the waterways laden with cut pine and other goods. 

Trollhättan’s historical significance as a trading junction and confluence point for the Göta Canal connecting southern Sweden’s two inland freshwater seas, Lake Vänern and Lake Vättern, is undisputed. Vänern covers an area of 5,650km² (145km long) and plunges to more than 100m in places. The smaller Vättern  spans 1,900km² (77km long) and is reported to run deeper at up to 128m, with an average depth of some 40m. Both are vast enough to influence local weather conditions! According to Visit Sweden, the canal linking the two lakes took ten years to build and is still one of the largest construction projects ever in Sweden, and remains one of the country’s more popular tourist destinations. 

Trollhättan is also the original home of Saab Automobiles and remains to this day a centre for diehard enthusiasts of the iconic Swedish cars built in the Trollhättan plant from 1949 till the company ceased production once and for all in 2014. Saab’s story of innovation, style, quality and quirks is captured in a dedicated museum just outside the city centre, facing the canal and an impressive draw bridge for passing ships.

1. Why such mirth?

With a photo-ready natural setting, monumental feats of engineering (canals, locks), a compact and attractive town centre, and that Saab connection, why did my visit to Trollhättan elicit such (barely concealed) mirth? 

Hard to say for sure, but part of the answer probably dates back to post-industrial changes in Sweden (as elsewhere) and the declining significance of waterways in today’s transport mix. But it is also likely a product of socio-economic struggles in the wake of Saab’s closure, higher than average unemployment, ‘youth flight’ to major cities, and perhaps its proximity to the more glitzy coastal destinations, from Gothenburg right up to the Norwegian border.  

For some Swedes and most non-Swedes the only thing they know or can remember hearing about Trollhättan lately is the tragic school stabbings in 2015 by a 21-year-old dressed as a wannabe movie villain. Reports at the time said he even posed for pictures with students before the spree began. 

“Sweden has reacted with shock and horror after a teacher and pupil were stabbed to death in a school with a high number of immigrants by a masked man who was reported to have far-right sympathies,” noted The Guardian at the time.  

The possible connection between the racist nature of the attack and the town may also lead to cognitive bias on the part of some when they think of Trollhättan – a non-trivial issue in Sweden today as it contends with what is perceived as a growing rift in society. The Swedish Government addresses the issue of immigration, integration and crime in the country in a dedicated factsheet.   

Regardless of the reasons, being the one to dispel myths gives great pleasure in the case of Trollhättan, a city poised for a new era. Call it the third act in a redemption story, if it needs a label. 

2. And action!

The emergence of a vibrant film scene in Trollhättan Municipality is perhaps a testament to the appeal of a city flexing its post-industrial muscle. Downtown, the movie studio Film i Väst produces about half of all Swedish full-length films, according to Move to Gothenburg.

“The high concentration of productions has led many cinematography-related businesses to establish their headquarters or branches in Trollhättan. They constitute an important part of fast-growing creative activities,” Move to Gothenburg explains.

Some recent titles co-produced by the Trollhättan studio include The Girl with the Needle (2024), loosely based on the Danish serial killer Dagmar Overbye, and Triangle of Sadness (2022), a Palme d’Or-winning comedy about the social hierarchy being turned upside down. Most Swedes and cinephiles abroad will recall an earlier production by Film i Vast, called Together (2000), featuring the antics of a 1970s Swedish hippie commune.      

Celebrities from the large and small screen have been sighted in the town over the years. The community created its own version of a Walk of Fame along Storgatan. Notable stars on the ‘Walk’ include Swedish actor Stellan Skarsgård and Australian actress Nicole Kidman who both featured in Lars von Trier’s Dogville (2003) filmed in the area.

Gothenburg is also keen to get in on the act by offering favourable conditions for the film sector, according to reports. This includes access to expertise in game development, advertising, and feature film production, as well as facilities within Gothenburg Film Studios’ 10,000m² complex – and a critical mass of around 40 companies already working in the hub.

3. Glitz and guts combo

It’s my contention that the natural beauty of the fells and lakeside wetlands, combined with the gutsy heritage and engineered majesty of the likes of Trollhättan, Örebro, and Karlstad make for a more well-rounded tour than a fly-in-fly-out trip to Sweden’s west coast or flagship cities.    

If you do wish to combine the coast and hinterlands, however, some recommendations for seaside trips include the village and island of Marstrand, where those not easily spooked can visit and even spend a night at a B&B annexed to Carlsten’s Fortress. 

For picture postcard views of the coast, Weather Islands, and a spot of people-watching Fjällbacka is worth visiting (book well in advance if planning to stay over!). The nearby Vitlycke Museum and Heritage Site lets you get up close and personal with our Bronze Age northern cousins, and includes free walks round the rock carvings and a neat visitor centre and open air mock village.

“Ingrid Bergman called Fjällbacka her paradise on earth,” notes Vastsverige website. The Swedish actress, beloved by Hollywood, spent many a summer in the village with family. “Camilla Läckberg places her murder mysteries [in the seaside village] and Astrid Lindgren’s book, Ronja Rövardotter, was filmed in the famous Kungsklyftan that splits Vetteberget in half.”

Other coastal treats north of Gothenburg include Tjörn, a haven of art, culture, and coastal vibes, Lysekil with its winding boardwalk and easy access to Skaftö island, and the year-round appeal of Grebbestad.

But if it’s a taste of real Sweden, from industrial icons, and endless natural wonders, to stories of (re)invention in response to changing societal cues and hues, then head to the source – the great lakes of southern Sweden.    

L’article Why Trollhättan is Sweden’s Hollywood in the making est apparu en premier sur Travel Tomorrow.